Stephanie

Meet Stella

By Stephanie | March 1, 2018 | Comments 2 comments

It seems I have always had more than one animal that shares my space. There was a time for a few months after Devon passed away that my house was void of any four-legged friends. I thought that the time had come for me to live alone. I couldn’t do it. My house was empty and sad. First came a black cat who hung around for a while but he did not stay. I searched and searched to no avail. Then came a little kitten who also did not stay too long. I tried to get her back inside but she was having none of it. Then came Lucy, I watched her come into this world and took her under my wing when she was 6 weeks old. Then came Seven, my baby boy who has been beside me now for just over 4 years. Then came Lucy’s mum and her sister. We were one big happy family. It was possible to take all 4 with me but not practical. The 3 cats have a fabulous home with my friend Ruth and I can see from her pictures they are very happy. Sure do miss them though.

It was not long after I arrived in Tepoztlan this little kitten who looked so frail was crying at my window. She came right in and made herself at home. Seven was not concerned at all having lived with cats all his life and immediately accepted her into his fold. But she had a collar so she must belong to someone. I put a notice in a group on Facebook and found out that she belonged to a young girl who was staying next door!! This little one made frequent visits and was welcomed every time.

I then saw a picture of a little dog that was found wandering the highway between Tepoztlan and Cuernavaca who needed a home. I was smitten, took her in and named her Stella. She too has one blue eye and one brown eye, wall eye. Well what a journey this has been since she arrived. Lovely, she came with fleas. Fleas. I hate fleas. They have thankfully all gone for now but the season is knocking on the door and I am keeping a close eye on any invasion. Seven was not that impressed with this feisty little girl but within a couple of weeks they couldn’t stop playing. Another reason for my move, I needed more garden space for the two to romp and play. That was fine until Stella found the escape route through the broken fence on the street. I cannot count how many times I chased and caught her. This was not cool. One day upon returning home, I let the dogs out and before I could bat an eye, she was gone. I searched til dark but could not find her. I was sad but what could I do?

The next morning I see that I have been tagged on Facebook with a dog that has been found. It was Stella!! I immediately got in touch and guess what? Stella had escaped from her also! She had travelled across town close to where I used to live. Was she looking for the old house or maybe looking for Elmer’s dogs? I was ready to trek up there and start looking but deep inside I did not think that would work. Then another lady posted Stella’s picture saying she had found her in the morning. Luckily she was confined and could not escape again. I went by taxi to pick her up but as taxis here are unlikely to take a dog on board, we walked home. An hour later we arrived and she was greeted by Seven and my neighbours dogs all wondering where she had been. She was exhausted and slept for 24 hours.

My question is once a street dog is she always going to be a street dog? One thing I knew for sure was that she needed to be spayed right away. It was Saturday and first thing Monday morning I paid a visit to my vet, told him the story and said it is time. She nor I can wait 2 more months. It has to be done now. The next day she was walked to the vet and had the big op. Hopefully this will calm her down. Now to get the fence fixed. And life will be good again. Until then she is chained. It is not something that I like to do but I will not be chasing her all over town again.

One thing I have been blown away with is the cost. With all her shots and the spay it comes to just over $100Canadian. In Canada I would be looking at closer to $1000. That being said, I understand why there are so many strays and so many animals that have not been sterilized here in Mexico. $100 to me is an incredible deal but to most here that is a lot of money. Most vets here have campaigns that offer ridiculously cheap spay/neuter weeks, I wish more people would take advantage. But as I have learned Mexico’s animals are only just beginning to get a voice. It will be some time before the general public accept responsibility for the animals in their homes. If she escapes again and I cannot find her at least she will not be producing more unwanted dogs on the street.

For now she is safe with Seven and I. I do hope it remains that way. And of course it is only Seven that is on the bed, he will not let her up!

Landlords, Good and Bad

By Stephanie | February 16, 2018 | Comments 2 comments

For the last almost 20 years I had the best landlord one could ever want. I miss that connection. There were never any issues and it was my home, I mean really my home for those years.

I still have a few things in their barn for a time perhaps if I may return. I have now come to the conclusion that I was extremely lucky. They became my friends. But time moves forward and I am suddenly jolted into reality.

I am here in a different country, different language and a whole new set of rules to live by. In Canada one pays the first and last months rent when you move in. So basically the last month you reside has been paid for. Well down here in Mexico you pay the first month and a deposit which is one months rent. It is then up to the landlord whether you will get that deposit back when you leave. Trust me, they will do anything not to pay you back that deposit. Mine is not unusual and possibly emphasized because I am a gringo.

Let me explain what happened. I decided to leave the house I rented mainly due to cost. The house was not overly large but as I spend the majority of time outside all I really used was the bedroom and kitchen/dining room. So why pay for something that is not being used. And I wanted more space for Seven. Since he first arrived in Holt, he had reign over 200 acres, no fences, no other dogs to quarrel with. Here in Tepoz he became trapped in a small garden and getting very vocal with all who passed the gate. This is not a life for a border collie. I found a beautiful little house, saving me $100 a month. One can buy a lot of food and wine with $100! This new house has much more space outside and Seven has relaxed and not barking at everything that passes, in fact it’s a long path to the road. Strange perhaps to some how one adjusts to the well-being of the animals that share your space possibly more than is necessary but for anyone that is connected beyond a shadow of a doubt, this is normal.

So I duly give my notice and I am then told I broke the contract and do no get my deposit back. I figured that would happen. Every day I was bombarded with messages. When are you leaving? Listen I have til the 15th and I will be out as soon as I can. After multiple trips with bits and pieces, the big things were finally moved this Monday. I promised I would return to the old house to sweep and mop the floor – lots of dog hair even though I swept every day! At the same time I would pick up the last remaining items, a garden hose, some plants and a big old ashtray that used to sit on my parents coffee table from way back in the 60’s. The plants were there piled up like useless pots but the hose and ashtray gone. I then get multiple messages that I left the place trashed. Garbage everywhere, dirty windows, broken latch. Well the latch broke on its own, just fell off the door one day while I was sitting on the patio. She thinks I am going to pay for that? Think again. I took the garbage to the corner as I have done for the past 3 months but now she says I have to pay – yeah I’ll get right on that. She says if it is not picked up she will bring it to my new house. Well lady I am not going to give you my address. And dirty windows? You just pocketed the deposit, pay someone to clean them. Whether I get the hose and ashtray back is questionable. Probably not. You may think oh come on Steph, it’s only a hose and an old ashtray. That’s not the point, they stole my property. Man am I ever glad to be out of there. She is not a nice person. I really think she tried to pull a fast one on the gringo but it did not work.

So that was my first house move in Mexico. One that I do not wish to encounter again. My new landlady is a calm, intelligent lady and I am sure the relationship will be a better experience. Thinking about it, I feel as I have just arrived in Tepoz. As much as I tried, the first house never gelled with me, something was not quite right. I will miss the peace and quiet that the house offered and my neighbours but most definitely not the landlord.

Rant over.

Tepoz is wonderful, we needed only to find the right spot to hang our hats. And I believe we have. Life is good.

Trails Around Tepoztlan

By Stephanie | February 1, 2018 | Comments 0 Comment

The landscape around Tepoztlan is amazing. She is nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains (no, they are not like the Rockies) that loom down from Mexico City. And the view from any point looking over the valley is stunning. No wonder the Aztec people chose this spot to build the temple El Tepozteco.

There is one major route that will take you to the pyramid and it is a challenge. I have not done that one since I have been here but I did last year. All the blurb that I read said it was a challenge. Not so much as the real climb but the rate you reach a higher altitude. I read that you should reach the top in about an hour and a half. No problem I thought having done the 4 day hike to Machu Picchu. Well I think it must have taken me well over 2 hours but the view at the end was spectacular. If you ever decide to take a trip to Tepoz, this has to be done. Best though not to do it on the weekend.

Upon arriving I met this guy who has lived here for some time and has traversed probably most if not all the trails around Tepoztlan. I have hooked up with him a few times not knowing what to expect. The first was a simple hike behind where I live. Seven and I meet him at the corner store. I so wanted Seven to come with us but the dogs, those territorial dogs stopped me. I left Seven at home but one of Elmer’s dogs decided to join us. Fair enough. On the way back we streak through a boy scout camp and I lose the dog. She was more interested in the food that they might have. We looked and called but she was not coming. I started to freak, what am I gong to tell Elmer? Half way back to my house, she appears on the trail looking at me wondering what all the fuss was about. I need to explore those trails some more. Hopefully I will not get lost!

The second time Don told me it would be a relatively difficult trail at parts but the view was to die for. I was in . But for what? We get the local bus to the end of the run and start are hike. We, there were four of us, cut through between two houses avoiding the ever so many territorial dogs in Mexico and start our climb. This is going to be no problem. Well about two-thirds of the way up I said this is it. There was no way I would make it to the top. I turned around and left the group. I know my limit.

Now to find my way back to the bus to take me to town. I followed the trail but took a slightly wrong turn and ended up in someones yard. Avoiding the dogs and chickens I found myself to the road by slipping and seriously hurting myself. My baby finger, two months later is still healing from the sprain!

My footwear is and always has been Blundstones from Tasmania and this pair does not fair well on these leafy slopes. One day I would like to take the same hike again now knowing what to expect and I will wear a different pair of shoes!

Our next hike was to a small village higher in the mountain behind the pyramid called San Juan Tlacotenco.

A easier hike and after this one I decided that it was not the footwear. I needed a walking stick. I should have tossed mine in the car. Never mind. The walking stick I used in Peru was a godsend. A simple one made from bamboo. I carried that one with me with full intentions of bringing it home. Silly me left it in the hotel room waiting for the bus to take me to the airport. Not to worry I will get one before the next hike. I also need to visit San Juan again, I really liked it.

I have not been on any further hikes, not that I do not want to but where do I begin? Do I feel safe enough to do them alone? Yes I do but I want to take Seven. That is what we do and what we love. It’s just getting past all these territorial dogs! Seven is lover not a fighter. He is not neutered. I have never had the need nor the desire to do that to him. He is not wandering the streets of Tepoztlan looking for a bitch in heat. But one thing that I have noticed since our arrival he is definitely showing a more territorial approach and has become quite vocal to any strangers. So maybe the time is coming when I will take him. He can be my protector. Thing is I do not want to put him in a position where he may feel it necessary to show his aggression to another dog. We already had that experience in the local park. Maybe I should stop worrying about it so much and just do it!

Why Tepoztlan

By Stephanie | January 25, 2018 | Comments 0 Comment

Tepoztlan, Pueblo Magico, Morelos.

What brought me here? Bear with me for a moment and I will explain.

Some years ago I was awoken to the most horrendous industry of canned lion hunting in South Africa. I was always well aware of the hunting that has for the last three centuries decimated wildlife but to discover that lions were now being bred for people to kill was something that I could never have imagined. If you are unfamiliar please go to Blood Lions educate yourself and become aware. Did you know that in the continent of Africa there are only perhaps a little more than 18,000 wild lions left. Some organizations say the figure could be as low as 15,000. They are hunted, poached, ravished by disease in some areas and their territory being squeezed tighter and tighter as mankind expands. Yet through a constant push to save the most iconic of species throughout history their numbers are dwindling, it is a tough road. Then on the captive bred lions it is estimated that there are close to 10,000 lions which all end up either as a trophy on someone’s wall or killed for the bones to be sent to far east because they are running out of tiger bones. Corruption and greed prevail. You are probably thinking OK Stephanie now you are talking about lions in Africa what the hell has that got to do with Tepoztlan?

When one becomes involved in spreading awareness of the atrocities and hardships that lions have to survive your search engines, technical or self-induced take you further. Take you deeper. One of those threads took me to the demise of captive lions and wild cats. Eventually that led me to Mexico and a scamtuary called Black Jaguar White Tiger. From the moment I set eyes on this place, the bells went off. This is wrong. Really wrong. For more information hope over to this Facebook page called BJWT Watchdog and get the real story. Then as social media does what it is supposed to do, I met a lady who is determined to change the face of animal laws in Mexico. We had to meet. With my love of Mexico and the opportunity to meet this incredible lady I came to Tepoztlan in November 2016 for a flying visit.

I was told by many that you do not find Tepoztlan, Tepoztlan finds you. Well she found me all right. The moment I returned to Holt, that was it, I was moving to Tepoztlan. No more cold winters for this lady. No more frozen paws for Seven.

One would think of loving the beach, the ocean I would venture there but no, it was the mountains, the magic of Tepoztlan was where I wanted to be. Who knows down the road I may find a little village on the coast but now it is the dead centre of Mexico where we hang our hats. Many say that Tepoztlan is like what San Miguel de Allende was like years ago but with better landscape surroundings. SMA is larger and has always been and is now quite expensive to even find a room. That’s what happens when places become popular, articles are written that it is best place to retire and bang what was once a secluded town with a lovely mix of people becomes a real estate persons dream. Tepoz is nestled in a valley only an hour away from Mexico City. The weekends are filled with what we British called Day Trippers but come Monday morning the streets are quiet and life resumes a normal pattern. Some fear that Tepoz is becoming the way of SMA and will fall into the too expensive category for many. But for now, it is holding its ground and offers a complex variety of life styles, from peasant to luxury.

So that’s how I ended in Tepoztlan. It is definitely a learning game I must admit. New country, new life and a new language. A new challenge. We have our down days like anyone else. Then I wake up in the morning to a beautiful sunny day and life is good.

Trouble in Paradise

By Stephanie | January 20, 2018 | Comments 2 comments

Upon moving into my new home, I wanted to meet the neighbours. And so did Seven. He and I quickly made good friends with one of the ten dogs that Elmer has. At first I thought she was snarling at me but no she was smiling, curling her top lip and wagging her tail. She soon became a permanent fixture on the porch and slowly made her way to my heart and the single bed/couch.

She enjoyed the brushes I was giving her every day she graced us with her presence. She also knows exactly when feed time is and stands at the gate staring, pleading with me to come in for food. How could I resist.They have a good diet but obviously the kibble was a real treat for her.

One day while inside, I did not realize that Seven had escaped through the gate from my lack of not shutting it correctly. Suddenly I heard a fury of dogs barking. I ran outside and my poor Seven was cornered by Elmer’s ten dogs. Luckily because of his thick coat he came out with only a scratch on his ear and one on his leg. Seven is a lover and not a fighter. He was traumatized and so was I. You have to remember that he was uprooted from his home where he had the full reign of 200 acres. He was lord of the manor. When we went venturing in the forests close to home, he was never one of those dogs that had to sniff every bum, he never had the need to romp and play with strange dogs. He had his favourites who used to come and visit. And now to be confronted by ten very territorial dogs was new to him as it was with me. And it was terrifying. What have I done? I cleaned his wounds and gave him big hugs and kisses. The gate is now always firmly closed and sadly we do not venture outside our little garden very often. There are still, almost three months later three of the ten dogs that will never accept Seven. One of them also makes a point of snarling at me every time I pass him.

Once on our outing to the corner store a man coming towards us with a really big strong pit bull harnessed to the gill was trying with all his might to get at Seven. This guy could hardly hold him back. Now Seven does not want to go down that street. He will not follow me. So I have to leash him or take him in the car to the football field close to the store. This is not what I had in mind. One day we parked at the entrance to the park and I checked to see if any dogs were there. I did not see any. We started to play frisbee and out of the blue a male boxer came charging. They both did the dance and it did not look good. The owner came running and basically gave me shit. Well excuse me, if you know your dog will be aggressive keep him on a damn leash when you know this park is used by owners and their dogs and don’t blame them. We went back to the car and waited for her to leave and let me tell you she took her sweet time. You see Seven is focused, focused on me. He does NOT want to play with other dogs, he wants to play frisbee. That’s his game.

Back at the house, there are four dogs that will now come into our little patch. Seven is happy with that. They too have no need to romp and play, they just all hang out together.

I have manged to brush all the knots and clumps from one of them and she is loving it.

Still working slowly on the other. Don’t get me wrong, they are well fed and healthy but they never get brushed. But we are missing one element that I was hoping to do, taking Seven on long walks in the many forest trails in Tepoztlan. Will this happen? I hope so, we have to find a way. For me and for Seven.

Since arriving here, Seven has found his voice. He was a very quiet dog back in Holt only barking when he went for his night-time pee letting the wildlife know he was there. That was it. Now it is a totally different story. He will bark at any vehicle that approaches and anyone he does not recognize. He seems to be following the lead of the neighbouring ten dogs. I also find that many dogs who are penned in their yards do exactly the same thing. Is this the Mexican way? Is this a good thing? This is definitely one thing that I did not really think about when I was beginning my new life. Dealing with multiple free roaming dogs. They are not feral, they all have a home, well most do here in Tepoztlan but their life is different. There are many people here that treat dogs the way I do, the way I am used to as part of the family but there are also many people who treat their dogs with indifference. It is a difficult thing to get used to but we will. Seven and I will.

Scorpions

By Stephanie | January 16, 2018 | Comments 0 Comment

Living in the climate and location that I am now in there are a number of insects that one has to learn to live with. Basically it is deal with it or move on. A whole array of species that are not in Canada. Like me, they hate the cold weather. I do not have a problem with them as long as they do not occupy my bed!

There are a number of resident spiders that pose no fear but man some of them are quite large! One only has to tap the wall and they quickly move away. The one that I do though have a massive aversion to is a scorpion. Many moons ago while in Morocco, the lady I was travelling with from Australia came to me while I was enjoying the morning view having a coffee. Quietly she said, what do scorpions look like? Why do you ask I say. Well because of the rain that we had seen the day before, the first in five years, this particular scorpion had decided to take cover, in her bedroom. He was caught, put in a jar and then tormented until he died. That I did not like, just release him but I was not in control. The second time I came across a scorpion was last year when I was in Tepoztlan. Getting dressed one morning, I grab my socks and out drops a scorpion. Here he is and yes I freaked. I slept with the light on for the next few days as I was told they don’t like light. Now how true that is I have no idea!! These, although will give a nasty sting are not that bad apparently. It is the little beige ones that you should worry about. Great. Small and hard to see. But we won’t go there.

My next encounter was a few weeks ago. I had swept the porch and decided to throw buckets of water over to clean off the dust. Job nicely done, it was time for a beer. Well I looked down and there was this big scorpion heading straight for the front door. OMG if there was a camera you would all laugh. There was this scorpion which in reality does not want anything to do with me at all and if one compares my size to him, you get the picture. Here I am trying to manoeuvre this poor thing with chair. He was not happy and kept raising his tail which I could see was getting full of venom. The chair was not working. Grabbed the broom and swept him away. I furiously looked in the grass to see where he landed but never found him. I no longer throw buckets of water on the porch. I am sure there must be some under there living their life. Just don’t show your face to me or Seven please. After seeing Seven’s reaction to the praying mantis, I am sure he would scamper if he was faced with a scorpion. Hope so.

Now it is routine. Check the bed and shake everything before putting it on.

The Bed

By Stephanie | January 9, 2018 | Comments 0 Comment

After a night on the sofa, if one can call it that, a bed to sleep on was top priority. Seven was fine, he had his and was not in the least concerned.

Where do I get a bed? One would think a bed store. Yeah that’s great but there are no “bed stores” in Tepoztlan. One has to go to Cuernavaca or use the convenience of shopping on-line. I chose the latter. Now there are many choices. Many stores offer this but who do I choose? I decided to use Wal-Mart. They had the best price and I could use PayPal, double bonus. Order complete with a base and an added item, a Bodum coffee maker which I know many of friends will be amazed. But now you know that fresh coffee is available . I was told delivery would be within 7/10 days. So life on the couch had to get a little more experimental. Trust me, nothing worked. Sleep was literally fucking awful. Can’t put it any other way.

As days go by, I start to track the process through FedEx (that’s who Wal-Mart use in Mexico). The mattress and the coffee maker were on their way. The base not so. I did not pay too much attention as I was informed that each item “could” be shipped separately. Finally after what felt like an eternity the mattress was gong to be delivered. But OMG I live somewhere that is really hard to find unless you live here if that makes sense. And FedEx kept telling me the address was wrong. Reminds me of living in Holt, Ontario where so many people had absolutely no idea that a house actually existed on my road, even the local cops. So I can deal with this, somewhat. After 3 attempts with phone calls to FedEx from my friend Maria and my landlady because there was no way I was capable of giving the directions over the phone, the mattress arrives. That night I am in heaven. After over two weeks on the ill-fitting couch, this was like being in the Four Seasons.

The same process happened again when FedEx wanted to deliver the coffee maker. Dude you were here last week remember. Again phone calls from my landlady to dispatch and the coffee maker was delivered. Still no sign of when the base will be delivered. I decided to cancel that and hope that I get my money back. At first Wal-Mart did not want to cancel my order and give me a refund, naturally. They told me it was back-ordered and that I have to wait until if was delivered and then return it for a refund. How insane is that? I told them they were crazy, you have taken my money for something that was not in stock and now cannot tell me when the bed base would be stock, let alone be delivered. WIth that my order was cancelled and my money refunded. No more shopping on-line with Wal-Mart.

Now I need to get the mattress off the floor. Yes for years I slept on a futon on the floor but those hippie days are over. I want and need a real bed off the floor. Having cancelled the base from Wal-Mart I really didn’t know where to go. I ask Elmer, my neighbour if he knows a carpenter that will make me one. He said I will take you there. Great!! Ten minutes later he is waiting at my gate to take me to the carpenter. I hand him the keys to my car and off we go to where I have no idea. We take the free road to Cuernavaca and pass through many small towns and then we hit Miguel Hidalgo where both sides of the street were lined with vendors selling anything you wanted in wood.

Elmer’s friend was not there so we ventured to the next shop. I bought a base for my mattress and a single one that will serve as a guest bed and sofa. Done deal. Haha they asked if I wanted to put them on the roof of the car, umm no. Elmer the next day went back with his old trusty pick-up and brought them to me. He summoned some men to bring them inside for me.

After 3 weeks I had a bed. A comfy mattress off the floor. Seven looked and went finally mum, we have a bed! Now get this, in Canada I had a king size but down-sized to a queen. Wow, I notice the difference and so does Seven – not so big is it Seven? But he doesn’t seem to care.

We Made It

By Stephanie | January 6, 2018 | Comments 2 comments

After nine long days on the road with little sleep apart from in San Miguel, we made it. We were here in Tepoztlan, Pueblo Magico, Morelos, Mexico. WOW. You did it Stephanie. Now what?

After unloading the car it was time to decide what I was going to sleep on. I had no bed. My friend Maria had helped me get a fridge, table with chairs and a sofa but alas there was not time to purchase a bed. Thinking back I should have put emphasis on a bed. But here I was. The sofa is skinny and not long enough for my frame but it was all I had unless I wanted to sleep on the floor – no scrap that idea. So the sofa it was. I was so tired, the floor would have been just as good. Needless to say I was awake early. There was a whole list of things that had to be done. Water and gas to be ordered and food to purchase. I sat on the porch and thought where the hell to I begin! Lucky for me the landlady’s brother-in-law, Elmer lives across the street and delivers water. You will here much more of Elmer as time goes on. The tank was almost empty and took two loads to fill. Done. Then this truck comes down the dusty road tooting his horn and he is selling gas! Done.

Now we must find some food. Where do I go? I Really had no idea. To be honest I don’t think I went to the market in Tepoztlan that first day. I really cannot remember. I know I found the local store that would give me the basics but no food to speak of. I must have eaten but what? That is a long-lost memory now. For quite some time I used google to make my route out of here and still do! Tepoztlan is not a large town but to me then it was a twisted network of cobbled stone streets.

But for the most part that day was spent in a daze, emptying the boxes of stuff I had brought with me. This was not a holiday, this was it. This was home. I am not sure what Seven thought of the whole ordeal but he was beginning to meet the neighbours dogs. Elmer has 10 of them. Thank god I have a fenced yard as time will tell but this picking up dog poop is a real bummer. After 18 years of not having to worry about it as all my dogs including Seven would find a spot in the bush away from everything. Now I have to pick it up, the poop-and-scoop deal every day. Damn he poops a lot, I just never realized. One learns very early that eyes are down when walking either to make sure you don’t step in dog poop or trip over the cobbled stones. Many times I have tripped and only once stepped in poop. No looking up at the beautiful mountains that surround Tepoztlan while walking, stop then look up.

Seven was itching to run I could tell but for now we rest and look out at our domain.

Last Day on the Road

By Stephanie | December 31, 2017 | Comments 0 Comment

I so did not want to leave San Miguel but we must move forward. This is our last day on the road – for now. Leaving Holt, Ontario many things crossed my mind. First what a crazy thing to do! Second, what the hell am I doing. Third and possibly the most important, I was following my dream. I feel that most people never ever thought that I would actually do it. How many women or men pack up and head out to a new life at 68? I too had my doubts whether I would grab that bull by the horn and actually go through with everything. Was I all talk and no action? Guess I was fool enough, strong enough, head strong enough, so why the hell not! In retrospect I wish I had taken longer to make the journey, taken the time to explore while I was travelling. But alas that also would have required more money which I did not have. Maybe next time.

The last leg of my journey was a sticky one for me. From San Miguel de Allende to my destination meant driving right through Mexico City. That I did not want to do. Not a chance. With my pigeon Spanish and trying to traverse through one of the most populated cities in the world it was not happening. What to do? I contacted a small tour company from San Miguel called Safe Trips SMA. Mara was supreme. The day before I sent her pictures of all the documents she needed. Mara was driving, Seven and I were passengers. What a joy that was going to be. The time was set for 8AM. I was awake way before that making sure I had everything in order and a couple of good cups of coffee. Mara was right on time. We loaded the few bags I had, put Seven in the car, said our good-byes to Hamish and paradise. And we were off.

Mara is Mexican and has countless years experience driving in Mexico and the US. But at the same time I was nervous. I have only driven this car for just over a week and to me it was like a damn truck compared to the Jeep I had driven for 17 years. But Mara climbed in and started driving it like she had owned it for years. I was unaware it was a holiday weekend in Mexico. Pretty hard to keep up with in Mexico because they have so many! Lucky for us because the highways were relatively quiet. Mara told me that usually driving through the city can take hours but we were sailing through. Coming closer to Mexico City she asked me what year the car is and the last number on my license plate. Kind of an odd question. I told her and she looked at me saying, really? All the information that I had read prior to the trip I cannot for the life of me remember reading anything about this. In Mexico City they are very adamant about keeping older cars off the road. And you must pay attention to the last number. My number was up. We were not supposed to be on the road. Holy Shit. If caught the car would be impounded, Mara could lose her license and I would be up shit’s creek with a bill that I could not afford. We purchased a pass for the over-pass. There was hardly any traffic and we booted it. Once safely out of the boundaries of Mexico City we did a high-five and fumbled through our bags to light a cigarette. Tense? Just a tad.

We are almost there. The road out of Mexico City to our destination is a highway that runs through the mountains. The highway gave us glimpses of the most active volcano in Mexico

Popocatépetl which has been more active since the devastating earth quake in September of this year.

Not far now. My friend Maria is meeting us at the only gas station in town to guide us to my new home. We made such good time everyone was amazed. Mara had places to go, people to see so there I was parked waiting for Maria. The clock was ticking. Maria was thinking the same, where are they. Finally we connect. She is at the other end of the station. It has been a year since I have seen her. We are both pretty speechless. I am in a daze.

Now it is time to follow Maria to the house. The brakes are squeaking. The road is bumpy. I have absolutely no idea where I am going. We arrive. Time to meet the landlady. Seven is sniffing every bush and we quickly make it to the front door. I am immediately told that I need to get water, I need to get gas. I am shown a room upstairs which has just been built. It is lovely. But I am told if I want it, it is and extra $1500 pesos a month. Whoa wait a second. You do realize that I have driven for the last 9 days I can’t take all this in right now.

Maria asks if I would like to get something to eat. Damn right, haven’t had a thing all day. I lock the door and get in her car. I have no idea where I am but I buy something to eat, buy some coffee and some things that I feel I will need. I had no idea. The plan was to wait for Maria to return but I needed to get back to the house. Order a taxi I am told. I did just that and guess what, we got lost. Just great. Luckily I was able to get Maria on her phone and she guided the driver to my house. I pay the driver and there is Seven in the yard. I forgot to shut the back door, thank god I shut the gate.

I spent the next couple of hours unloading the car and dragging everything to the house. There was no need really but this was it. We made it Seven.

Journey’s end. Tepoztlan, Morelos, Mexico.

Day Eight San Miguel de Allende

By Stephanie | December 30, 2017 | Comments 0 Comment

Seven days on the road. Highways, motels, trucks, crappy food and my poor Seven not really knowing what was going on. I was exhausted yet wired to the gill. The road trip was not over yet but we took great refuge and thanks to my friend Hamish for letting us stay at his magnificent house in San Miguel de Allende. It made the seven days all worth it. His home in San Miguel is paradise. Nestled in the centre of the town behind brick walls and an unasuming door. Like many homes in Mexico, never ever judge the book by the cover. There is not the flamboyance of showing off to the passers-by as seen throughout North America. You just never know what you may find behind those mediocre looking garage doors.

Upon entering I was immediately hit with the smell of jasmine. Everything is open but private. I immediately felt relaxed and ready to rejuvenate.

After a good sleep, the first one in seven really, I had coffee and took Seven for a little walk around the neighbourhood praying I would not get lost! Returning, our day started with a great traditional Mexican breakfast prepared by the lady who takes care of everything at the house except the garden who Seven kept occupied, it had been a full week of not chasing his favourite ball so he was in paradise also.

It was then time for me to see a little of San Miguel. I certainly need more than an afternoon but thankful of my friend Hamish taking me on the mini tour. What a beautiful town and the centre was buzzing with tourists.

In fact San Miguel was my first choice some years ago but it has become expensive. In fact San Miguel has been listed as one of THE places to retire and as more and more people move into the town it is getting difficult to find suitable accommodation so my search extended.

Enroute to dinner I found my wings and had a magnificent meal while listening to some great music from Bobby Kapp, a good friend of Hamish.

Time to walk back to paradise and have a good sleep, another busy day lays ahead of us as our journey continues.

Author: Stephanie

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Day Eight San Miguel de Allende

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