After the flurry of last month, it was great to settle into some kind of routine before my next visitors arrive. The focus of course to include my best friends Seven and Stella whenever possible which was not difficult as we lived in such a beautiful little piece of paradise, I seldom went far. As Seven, Stella and I (now known as the 3 S’s) we continued to make our presence known and the flow of visitors continue much to Seven and Stella’s delight.
The wind in Tepoztlan can at times be wicked and weak old trees can and will cause damage. Luckily this huge branch missed the water tank and the room where the gas is hooked up. No-one was hurt but I am sure the mice, lizards, ants and scorpions were not impressed
My next guest was Julie, a friend of my best friend’s son and wow did we have a blast! One day while at the local artesian market enjoying the atmosphere we indulged in a local drink called pulque – (Pulque, or octli, is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant. It is traditional in central Mexico, where it has been produced for millennia. It has the color of milk, a rather viscous consistency and a sour yeast-like taste). Everything was fine until the next day……we were both laden with a severe case of diarrhea not wanting to move too far from the bathroom which lasted almost a week. Of course all my Mexican friends were in stitches over our predicament. Julie and I were NOT amused! Never will either of us will ever let another drop of pulque pass our lips. Need your digestive system cleaned out, I have the remedy! It was sad to see Julie leave but she had more to see and do in Mexico before heading back to Germany.
While waiting with such excitement for my best friend Christine to arrive with Laura I tried to remain busy. Not only with Seven and Stella but with my new friends baking cakes. Every couple of weeks we would all arrive at Pascal’s house and Jose gave us each a particular job to do while we sipped on beer, wine or whatever was on the table along with those enormous joints like we all used to roll back in the 60’s. We sure did bake cakes to remember. Be careful these cakes we made were quite potent and very tasty! I also took some time to bring out the artist in me by enhancing my zentangles with the dogs forever at my side.
Chris and Laura were here for a week and we packed in as much as possible before they were off to see the incoming migration of the Monarch butterflies. Tepoztlan is a small town but there is much to observe. As I mentioned, it was so much fun to see the town through my visitors eyes. I saw things that were missed in my day to day activity. And they get to see Tepoz so much better than the average tourista. It was wonderful to see them both and very sad to see them leave. We made a promise that this will not be the only time.
When they left, the house felt empty. It is difficult at times but then Seven and Stella always remind me that life is good. Without them life would be empty and the journey much different.
Not only was I getting to know the lay of the land so to speak. My home, the neighbourhood and new friends. Seven and Stella were also learning the routine. It was the first home I felt I could leave them outside safely and not be cooped inside. This meant constantly checking for Stella escape routes being the escape artist she is. Consequently Stella took guard top of one of the large cement columns at the entrance to the property and Seven choose the porch. That said, I never left them long and I was the one who brought them treats home. That’s when I started feeding them more raw meat, yogurt, cooked oats, vegetables. They loved it. I mean who would want to eat the same thing day after day after day. Yep, I spoil my dogs.
When you relocate to a foreign land, one naturally wants to connect with friends and show what a magnificent place Tepoztlan is. And of course show them my home, where I am so happy. It is interesting to find myself not only enjoying having the company and in the process I am seeing Tepoztlan from their eyes, a visitor to this magical land. The dogs sure didn’t mind the extra pets!
It was also time for me to exit Mexico as my visa was due to expire. My first real exit from Mexico since crossing the border on November 2017. If you are unaware of what happened, this post will explain. So within days of my first guest leaving, I was off to Toronto, to see my family and friends. Lots to think about and organize. First on the list is who will take care of my place and look after the loves of my life? That was settled quickly and off I go. I found out that they were having a blast with walks in the mountains. I was jealous! That was the start of my friend Pamela’s journey of having dogs. She now has four…..more on that later. Here is a taste of what she is doing. The food is excellent, atmosphere is amazing. So proud of her.
It was great to see everyone and wander around the streets of Toronto. A week passes very quickly with much to do and many people to see. This is how it will be every six months. And that’s OK with me.
Bending the law a wee bit. It could be touchy upon my return. Yet thousands of people do the same journey every six months. A quick exit and return. Trust me though it was always nerve racking for me. All it takes is one border official to scrutinize your passport and start with more questions. It has happened and from what I hear, more often than years gone by. Sure didn’t want to spend more time at a deportation centre. There you would be, literally hung in unbalance with everything at a place you cannot go. It was the chance I took to live in what I considered my little paradise. I had faith that I will sail through and resume my life in Tepoz.
It’s time to investigate my surroundings and discover why this house is so special.
not far from the front gate!
The front of the house faced the river but on high ground to prevent flooding – wise choice! Because sometimes when it rains the river will rise to meet the front gate! On days like that, one stays in the house! Wherever in this world, I do not understand why people build a house right by the river, one is just asking for trouble. Look at farmers in the past, they built there homes on the highest point of their land for a reason. Yes hauling water would be more difficult but when those rains come, the family would be thankful.
temple view
When it was deemed that the road beside my house needed to be widened by adding two more lanes an unexpected discovery was made – a small temple was found. Construction was then stopped until such time archeologists could unearth and rebuild to a degree. Standing on this site one can see the main temple of Tepoztlan where most tourists will climb. I can only assume that the position of the temple was built perhaps as a look-out as you can see the valleys below that now make Tepoztlan. The hills beside the highway have not been researched to any great extent and I am sure they still hold many secrets. You can read a little about it here, it should auto translate for you. Construction in Mexico takes a long time is an understatement. When the general election was held, all work ceased on the highway and the temple because a new party had taken power. It actually took two years before any further work was done on the highway and further reconstruction of the temple.
Back to the rain. Tepoztlan has two seasons – wet and dry. The rain usually holds off til mid afternoon which gives one time to explore or to shop without getting wet. There are days though when it will rain all day. Seven and Stella are not impressed. But wow the fauna does grow quickly!
Being the rainy season I soon discovered a massive leak on the main floor and one in the bathroom. Once again, construction in Mexico is slow. Nothing could be done until the end of the wet season which will be another couple of months. Time to buy some buckets!
I could not complain though. My bedroom/workspace on the third floor was dry and had a magnificent view of the mountains that surround Tepoztlan and in the morning of the active volcano. I am the blue dot in the screen shot, just a two hour drive.
Stella managed to find mice in the house. I tried to save them but she was too quick. We found the nest or what was left and quickly cleaned it up. I also learned that absolutely no food to be left on the counter, unless one wants to have ants of all kinds and more mice take up home. The house is old, the windows are not sealed as one is used to coming from Canada but all is OK. As most of you know, I love all animals and would not kill any intentionally. Scorpions though, I am sorry, you take your life in your own hands and will not survive if I see you in my house. They really do give me the creeps. It is said that scorpions do not like lavender. Perhaps that is why most houses have abundant lavender plants. I bought many. Did it help? Not really sure!
I was beginning to understand why this house was special. The river. The temple. The volcano, The valley. It was home.
The day finally arrived. Seven and Stella could feel my excitement I am sure with me pacing in anticipation. Having only been in Mexico for a mere seven months with no more than I could fit in my car, I was amazed at how much I had accumulated. Basic stuff – a bed, a table and chairs, small chest of drawers and of course my another dog, Stella.
I definitely needed some muscle to help me move, so I hired two men and a truck, literally. Two loads with me and the 2 dogs crammed in the front seat. Luckily it was not too far. I did feel sorry for the men though with the many uneven shitty steps to bring my wares down and then more, although good stairs to carry them up upon arrival at the new abode. They did a stellar job. A few plants were left behind which I reluctantly returned to the house of doom to retrieve the following week.
Finally when the men left, I sat down on the porch and overlooked what was heaven to me. I had such good feelings surround me. The dogs were joyous. They now had almost an acre to play in with many trees including a white grapefruit tree! I felt that I had finally arrived home, a place I could hang my hat. A place to grow. We all slept well that night.
My first job the next day was to secure the best I could any escape possibilities for my gypsy Stella, the extraordinary escape artist. She will find any exit, trust me on this. Seven, no problem, he would never leave. And over the course of the following few weeks I will make this house my home. The transformation came quickly. We all settled in much faster than expected. Seven and Stella become best friends which was what I wanted. Stella was always convinced that everyone loves her, whether you have four legs or two. Seven on the other hand was and still is extremely cautious who he accepts into his fold.
Great plans need work and time. My plan for the front of the house immediately came to light – to expand it with local fauna. The back of the house I’ll just leave to grow wild, there was no need to transform it to manicured space. Leave it for the wildlife that called it their home – the lizards, spiders, owls, birds, possums, mice and god forbid scorpions. But we all deserve some space, right?
It was just a short walk over the small river in front of the house to the local village, Ixcatepec which provided me with just about everything I needed. Naturally being in a small village, I was soon recognized as the new gringo but quickly made friends with people who have lived here all their life. The language barrier can be a terrible hinderance but you make the effort and so do they. And life continues.
Over the next few weeks I came across many things why this house was so special and why I had such good feelings. One can argue that structures do not hold any more purpose than the reason they were were built. But honestly this place held a special vibe. There was a river in front. There was a recently discovered temple behind the house that when standing on it you can see the main temple of Tepoztlan. And from the room at the top of the house which became “my” room you could see the tallest and most active volcano in Mexico, Popocatépetl. Seriously, this place is magical. You will read more of the magic soon.
Naturally I needed to invite my new friends to my new home. One has to have, needs to have a welcoming party. And that I did. Because I had made it home. I was the happiest I had been in a long time. After years of dreaming the 3 S’s – Seven, Stella and I have arrived.
Many of you know the story. Me packing up and leaving my comfort zone. Headed south to Mexico with a few belongings and my dog, my best friend Seven. We crossed the US/Mexico border without a question. “Have a nice time” they told me. And for 5 months that is exactly what I did with a few little hic-ups along the way.
March 15th. I decided not to cook that day, I wanted to go again to this fabulous little café down the road. Put on some clean clothes, told the dogs to be good and I will be back soon. It was around 12:30, the sun was shining and the café was just around the corner, well a leisurely 25 minute walk. Suddenly without warning there was a van from the Mexican Migration and 2 cops on their 4-wheelers. Pasaporte y papel, por favor. Now because of my easy entry into Mexico by car, my passport was not stamped. So as far as the Mexican Migration were concerned, I was there illegally. Yes I take part and only a very tiny part of the blame here for not insisting that my passport be stamped, but I had the paper work for the car and my Seven, so I did not worry.
I tell everyone my story but they do not believe me. As the title say, Truth without Proof ain’t worth Shit. I am finger printed, photographed and told to remove all my jewellery and hand everything over including cell phones. I cannot return to my house. My dogs. My Seven, my Stella. They were my only concern at that point, my babies. It was obvious that I could not go back to house. My dear friend saved the day, went to feed and play with my dogs and she brought my passport which I was told I needed or it could be longer that I would be held. How long? I was never told. I was given a meal and told to sleep. A 10×10 room is what I had with 2 bunk beds. I am thankful that there were no other “illegals” with me. Eventually I found myself signing a whole bunch of papers that I was told would allow me to re-enter Mexico. Six hours have gone by. By this time I am a nervous wreck. I cannot stop shaking, crying with both anger and fear. I manage to get a couple of hours sleep and I am told that I must be taken to the migration centre in Mexico City and be kept there until “my case” is reviewed and a decision is made on what they are going to do. At this point only a handful of people know what has happened. And truth be known did I? I had no idea that my friends and family were working to resolve this and get me home. I had no access to the outside world.
I was given the essentials to clean myself and then the ride to Mexico City in the same van followed by a police car. Arrival at the deportation place. Again everything has to be handed over. I am given a bag with the essentials, 2 blankets, a quick body search, more papers to sign and then the door opens into where I stayed for eight days. Eight days of my life that I will never ever forget. This is the only picture I can find of the centre I was in, taken in 2008 from this article. Really not much has changed in 10 years.
deportation centre
Cold showers, no towel, sign for toilet paper, sign for 3 meals a day which looked like something the dog threw up, line up for detergent, line up for diapers or sanitary towels. Phone calls can only be made certain times of the day. And my God if you asked one minute after the alloted times, you missed your opportunity. One day this guy came in and was blabbing about something for half an hour. When I asked if I could make a phone call, he said no it is past time. I said yeah, cos you have talked for half an hour so I missed it. He let me make it but when I called my friend was not home! The gate to the dormitories was closed around 10 and not opened til 9am the following morning after the head count. No lights out, you sleep with bright flourescent lights. The yard was size of maybe 2 basketball courts. Walls of 12 feet and topped with barbed wire and was watched by employees of a security company. Making us wait to go outside was crazy – where were we going to go? Not unless we grew wings. The excuse was so the place would be cleaned. Mexico is ripe with fresh vegetables and fruit at amazingly low cost, there was no reason why the food should be so bad. In 8 days I had one orange, 2 slices of lime and one piece of watermelon. The odd colour of the vegetables in the food made it hard to decipher what it was. The food was served on styrofoam plates and make sure you damage it before throwing it away. I was told that the plates were taken from the garbage, rinsed and reused the next meal.
I think I was the first Canadian there as the international dialling code was not written in one of their many books. You are allowed one free phone call a week. So you better have all your facts together not to miss the window. Every federal migration officer I spoke with knows that there is a serious problem with land border crossings. I said fix it! They said that is never going to happen. I arrived on Friday and then it was yet another holiday in Mexico, so nothing would be done until Tuesday. I wasn’t sure if I could make it. My friends told me to be strong. It was really difficult. You are helpless. You are a number. You are nothing. Your life is in the hands of strangers. I now know what it feels like to be a caged animal pacing, pacing, pacing.
As the days meld into each other, one becomes numb, void of any feelings. Then there were days when I felt I could take no more and I would sit there and cry. One family took me under their wing. They were from El Salvador and seeking asylum in Mexico, because if they returned, they would die. They had already been there 35 days. She was a strong woman and gave me strength while I was there. I missed them when their day came for them to leave but so happy for them. I intend to keep in touch. There were many who were looking to go to the US from Honduras, Guatemala, Chile, Peru caught before they made the border and sent back to their home countries. Many escaping abusive relationships with kids in tow and/or pregnant. Their lives on hold as mine was.
Daily I was worried about Seven and Stella. They are my life. But I shouldn’t have been, my friend arranged to put them in this kennel very close to where I live. They were safe and looked after by an amazing couple who run Caralampio and their Facebook page where these pictures came from.
kennel time
Seven at camp
Stella at camp
Now it was mid-week and by now the lawyer who my friends and mum paid for was working on getting me out at any time. Manana, manana. I know things move slower in Mexico, but for me these days were an eternity. The day finally arrived. Friday March 23rd. I was told that the migration agents who picked me up 8 days ago would be taking me to the airport at 4pm and bringing with them my passport so I could leave the country. I was not deported and there is no record of me being in Mexico illegally for the past 5 months.
With a flurry I was told to grab my belongings and the 2 blankets that were given me. I was leaving and it was way before 4pm. More papers to sign. Grab my things that were put in a safe, check that they are all there and then back in the van to the airport. Walking through the airport terminal with 2 immigration officers get quite a lot of looks. Yep, I am the bad ass Canadian lady of 68 years being sent out of the country, have a good gander. Many checks, more forms to sign. They stay with me until I am walking down the ramp to the plane. I feel for them, do they feel like shit? I bloody hope so.
The free flight back to Canada with Aero Mexico was great and I took full advantage of the free booze, I figured I deserved it at this point. You know how one always complains or hears complaints of bad food on planes? Well let me tell you it was like heaven to me and I must have devoured it within 5 minutes, right down to the last bread crumb. Settled down to a some shows and began to relax a little. Customs in Canada, yes I was questioned. I was away for 5 months, declaring nothing and carrying only a small back pack. They had to make sure I didn’t have a kilo of cocaine on me. My best friend met me and drove me to my mum’s.
What now? After 3 busy days back in Toronto filled with tears and laughter, I have returned to Mexico. My passport has been stamped and I am legal for 180days. I have my dogs, my best friends back. Where I wonder will I go from here?
It seems I have always had more than one animal that shares my space. There was a time for a few months after Devon passed away that my house was void of any four-legged friends. I thought that the time had come for me to live alone. I couldn’t do it. My house was empty and sad. First came a black cat who hung around for a while but he did not stay. I searched and searched to no avail. Then came a little kitten who also did not stay too long. I tried to get her back inside but she was having none of it. Then came Lucy, I watched her come into this world and took her under my wing when she was 6 weeks old. Then came Seven, my baby boy who has been beside me now for just over 4 years. Then came Lucy’s mum and her sister. We were one big happy family. It was possible to take all 4 with me but not practical. The 3 cats have a fabulous home with my friend Ruth and I can see from her pictures they are very happy. Sure do miss them though.
Lucy Cat
Baby
Mama
It was not long after I arrived in Tepoztlan this little kitten who looked so frail was crying at my window. She came right in and made herself at home. Seven was not concerned at all having lived with cats all his life and immediately accepted her into his fold. But she had a collar so she must belong to someone. I put a notice in a group on Facebook and found out that she belonged to a young girl who was staying next door!! This little one made frequent visits and was welcomed every time.
Lost kitten
I then saw a picture of a little dog that was found wandering the highway between Tepoztlan and Cuernavaca who needed a home. I was smitten, took her in and named her Stella. She too has one blue eye and one brown eye, wall eye. Well what a journey this has been since she arrived. Lovely, she came with fleas. Fleas. I hate fleas. They have thankfully all gone for now but the season is knocking on the door and I am keeping a close eye on any invasion. Seven was not that impressed with this feisty little girl but within a couple of weeks they couldn’t stop playing. Another reason for my move, I needed more garden space for the two to romp and play. That was fine until Stella found the escape route through the broken fence on the street. I cannot count how many times I chased and caught her. This was not cool. One day upon returning home, I let the dogs out and before I could bat an eye, she was gone. I searched til dark but could not find her. I was sad but what could I do?
The next morning I see that I have been tagged on Facebook with a dog that has been found. It was Stella!! I immediately got in touch and guess what? Stella had escaped from her also! She had travelled across town close to where I used to live. Was she looking for the old house or maybe looking for Elmer’s dogs? I was ready to trek up there and start looking but deep inside I did not think that would work. Then another lady posted Stella’s picture saying she had found her in the morning. Luckily she was confined and could not escape again. I went by taxi to pick her up but as taxis here are unlikely to take a dog on board, we walked home. An hour later we arrived and she was greeted by Seven and my neighbours dogs all wondering where she had been. She was exhausted and slept for 24 hours.
My question is once a street dog is she always going to be a street dog? One thing I knew for sure was that she needed to be spayed right away. It was Saturday and first thing Monday morning I paid a visit to my vet, told him the story and said it is time. She nor I can wait 2 more months. It has to be done now. The next day she was walked to the vet and had the big op. Hopefully this will calm her down. Now to get the fence fixed. And life will be good again. Until then she is chained. It is not something that I like to do but I will not be chasing her all over town again.
One thing I have been blown away with is the cost. With all her shots and the spay it comes to just over $100Canadian. In Canada I would be looking at closer to $1000. That being said, I understand why there are so many strays and so many animals that have not been sterilized here in Mexico. $100 to me is an incredible deal but to most here that is a lot of money. Most vets here have campaigns that offer ridiculously cheap spay/neuter weeks, I wish more people would take advantage. But as I have learned Mexico’s animals are only just beginning to get a voice. It will be some time before the general public accept responsibility for the animals in their homes. If she escapes again and I cannot find her at least she will not be producing more unwanted dogs on the street.
For now she is safe with Seven and I. I do hope it remains that way. And of course it is only Seven that is on the bed, he will not let her up!
For the last almost 20 years I had the best landlord one could ever want. I miss that connection. There were never any issues and it was my home, I mean really my home for those years.
our previous home
I still have a few things in their barn for a time perhaps if I may return. I have now come to the conclusion that I was extremely lucky. They became my friends. But time moves forward and I am suddenly jolted into reality.
I am here in a different country, different language and a whole new set of rules to live by. In Canada one pays the first and last months rent when you move in. So basically the last month you reside has been paid for. Well down here in Mexico you pay the first month and a deposit which is one months rent. It is then up to the landlord whether you will get that deposit back when you leave. Trust me, they will do anything not to pay you back that deposit. Mine is not unusual and possibly emphasized because I am a gringo.
Let me explain what happened. I decided to leave the house I rented mainly due to cost. The house was not overly large but as I spend the majority of time outside all I really used was the bedroom and kitchen/dining room. So why pay for something that is not being used. And I wanted more space for Seven. Since he first arrived in Holt, he had reign over 200 acres, no fences, no other dogs to quarrel with. Here in Tepoz he became trapped in a small garden and getting very vocal with all who passed the gate. This is not a life for a border collie. I found a beautiful little house, saving me $100 a month. One can buy a lot of food and wine with $100! This new house has much more space outside and Seven has relaxed and not barking at everything that passes, in fact it’s a long path to the road. Strange perhaps to some how one adjusts to the well-being of the animals that share your space possibly more than is necessary but for anyone that is connected beyond a shadow of a doubt, this is normal.
So I duly give my notice and I am then told I broke the contract and do no get my deposit back. I figured that would happen. Every day I was bombarded with messages. When are you leaving? Listen I have til the 15th and I will be out as soon as I can. After multiple trips with bits and pieces, the big things were finally moved this Monday. I promised I would return to the old house to sweep and mop the floor – lots of dog hair even though I swept every day! At the same time I would pick up the last remaining items, a garden hose, some plants and a big old ashtray that used to sit on my parents coffee table from way back in the 60’s. The plants were there piled up like useless pots but the hose and ashtray gone. I then get multiple messages that I left the place trashed. Garbage everywhere, dirty windows, broken latch. Well the latch broke on its own, just fell off the door one day while I was sitting on the patio. She thinks I am going to pay for that? Think again. I took the garbage to the corner as I have done for the past 3 months but now she says I have to pay – yeah I’ll get right on that. She says if it is not picked up she will bring it to my new house. Well lady I am not going to give you my address. And dirty windows? You just pocketed the deposit, pay someone to clean them. Whether I get the hose and ashtray back is questionable. Probably not. You may think oh come on Steph, it’s only a hose and an old ashtray. That’s not the point, they stole my property. Man am I ever glad to be out of there. She is not a nice person. I really think she tried to pull a fast one on the gringo but it did not work.
So that was my first house move in Mexico. One that I do not wish to encounter again. My new landlady is a calm, intelligent lady and I am sure the relationship will be a better experience. Thinking about it, I feel as I have just arrived in Tepoz. As much as I tried, the first house never gelled with me, something was not quite right. I will miss the peace and quiet that the house offered and my neighbours but most definitely not the landlord.
Rant over.
Tepoz is wonderful, we needed only to find the right spot to hang our hats. And I believe we have. Life is good.
The landscape around Tepoztlan is amazing. She is nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains (no, they are not like the Rockies) that loom down from Mexico City. And the view from any point looking over the valley is stunning. No wonder the Aztec people chose this spot to build the temple El Tepozteco.
the view from the pyramid
There is one major route that will take you to the pyramid and it is a challenge. I have not done that one since I have been here but I did last year. All the blurb that I read said it was a challenge. Not so much as the real climb but the rate you reach a higher altitude. I read that you should reach the top in about an hour and a half. No problem I thought having done the 4 day hike to Machu Picchu. Well I think it must have taken me well over 2 hours but the view at the end was spectacular. If you ever decide to take a trip to Tepoz, this has to be done. Best though not to do it on the weekend.
Upon arriving I met this guy who has lived here for some time and has traversed probably most if not all the trails around Tepoztlan. I have hooked up with him a few times not knowing what to expect. The first was a simple hike behind where I live. Seven and I meet him at the corner store. I so wanted Seven to come with us but the dogs, those territorial dogs stopped me. I left Seven at home but one of Elmer’s dogs decided to join us. Fair enough. On the way back we streak through a boy scout camp and I lose the dog. She was more interested in the food that they might have. We looked and called but she was not coming. I started to freak, what am I gong to tell Elmer? Half way back to my house, she appears on the trail looking at me wondering what all the fuss was about. I need to explore those trails some more. Hopefully I will not get lost!
The second time Don told me it would be a relatively difficult trail at parts but the view was to die for. I was in . But for what? We get the local bus to the end of the run and start are hike. We, there were four of us, cut through between two houses avoiding the ever so many territorial dogs in Mexico and start our climb. This is going to be no problem. Well about two-thirds of the way up I said this is it. There was no way I would make it to the top. I turned around and left the group. I know my limit.
Tepoztlan from the south
Now to find my way back to the bus to take me to town. I followed the trail but took a slightly wrong turn and ended up in someones yard. Avoiding the dogs and chickens I found myself to the road by slipping and seriously hurting myself. My baby finger, two months later is still healing from the sprain!
My footwear is and always has been Blundstones from Tasmania and this pair does not fair well on these leafy slopes. One day I would like to take the same hike again now knowing what to expect and I will wear a different pair of shoes!
minor injury
Our next hike was to a small village higher in the mountain behind the pyramid called San Juan Tlacotenco.
tepoztlan from san juan
A easier hike and after this one I decided that it was not the footwear. I needed a walking stick. I should have tossed mine in the car. Never mind. The walking stick I used in Peru was a godsend. A simple one made from bamboo. I carried that one with me with full intentions of bringing it home. Silly me left it in the hotel room waiting for the bus to take me to the airport. Not to worry I will get one before the next hike. I also need to visit San Juan again, I really liked it.
volcano from san Juan
I have not been on any further hikes, not that I do not want to but where do I begin? Do I feel safe enough to do them alone? Yes I do but I want to take Seven. That is what we do and what we love. It’s just getting past all these territorial dogs! Seven is lover not a fighter. He is not neutered. I have never had the need nor the desire to do that to him. He is not wandering the streets of Tepoztlan looking for a bitch in heat. But one thing that I have noticed since our arrival he is definitely showing a more territorial approach and has become quite vocal to any strangers. So maybe the time is coming when I will take him. He can be my protector. Thing is I do not want to put him in a position where he may feel it necessary to show his aggression to another dog. We already had that experience in the local park. Maybe I should stop worrying about it so much and just do it!
What brought me here? Bear with me for a moment and I will explain.
Some years ago I was awoken to the most horrendous industry of canned lion hunting in South Africa. I was always well aware of the hunting that has for the last three centuries decimated wildlife but to discover that lions were now being bred for people to kill was something that I could never have imagined. If you are unfamiliar please go to Blood Lions educate yourself and become aware. Did you know that in the continent of Africa there are only perhaps a little more than 18,000 wild lions left. Some organizations say the figure could be as low as 15,000. They are hunted, poached, ravished by disease in some areas and their territory being squeezed tighter and tighter as mankind expands. Yet through a constant push to save the most iconic of species throughout history their numbers are dwindling, it is a tough road. Then on the captive bred lions it is estimated that there are close to 10,000 lions which all end up either as a trophy on someone’s wall or killed for the bones to be sent to far east because they are running out of tiger bones. Corruption and greed prevail. You are probably thinking OK Stephanie now you are talking about lions in Africa what the hell has that got to do with Tepoztlan?
When one becomes involved in spreading awareness of the atrocities and hardships that lions have to survive your search engines, technical or self-induced take you further. Take you deeper. One of those threads took me to the demise of captive lions and wild cats. Eventually that led me to Mexico and a scamtuary called Black Jaguar White Tiger. From the moment I set eyes on this place, the bells went off. This is wrong. Really wrong. For more information hope over to this Facebook page called BJWT Watchdog and get the real story. Then as social media does what it is supposed to do, I met a lady who is determined to change the face of animal laws in Mexico. We had to meet. With my love of Mexico and the opportunity to meet this incredible lady I came to Tepoztlan in November 2016 for a flying visit.
my beswt friend on my first visit
delights in the market
I was told by many that you do not find Tepoztlan, Tepoztlan finds you. Well she found me all right. The moment I returned to Holt, that was it, I was moving to Tepoztlan. No more cold winters for this lady. No more frozen paws for Seven.
One would think of loving the beach, the ocean I would venture there but no, it was the mountains, the magic of Tepoztlan was where I wanted to be. Who knows down the road I may find a little village on the coast but now it is the dead centre of Mexico where we hang our hats. Many say that Tepoztlan is like what San Miguel de Allende was like years ago but with better landscape surroundings. SMA is larger and has always been and is now quite expensive to even find a room. That’s what happens when places become popular, articles are written that it is best place to retire and bang what was once a secluded town with a lovely mix of people becomes a real estate persons dream. Tepoz is nestled in a valley only an hour away from Mexico City. The weekends are filled with what we British called Day Trippersbut come Monday morning the streets are quiet and life resumes a normal pattern. Some fear that Tepoz is becoming the way of SMA and will fall into the too expensive category for many. But for now, it is holding its ground and offers a complex variety of life styles, from peasant to luxury.
So that’s how I ended in Tepoztlan. It is definitely a learning game I must admit. New country, new life and a new language. A new challenge. We have our down days like anyone else. Then I wake up in the morning to a beautiful sunny day and life is good.
Upon moving into my new home, I wanted to meet the neighbours. And so did Seven. He and I quickly made good friends with one of the ten dogs that Elmer has. At first I thought she was snarling at me but no she was smiling, curling her top lip and wagging her tail. She soon became a permanent fixture on the porch and slowly made her way to my heart and the single bed/couch.
she found the bed
She enjoyed the brushes I was giving her every day she graced us with her presence. She also knows exactly when feed time is and stands at the gate staring, pleading with me to come in for food. How could I resist.They have a good diet but obviously the kibble was a real treat for her.
feed time
One day while inside, I did not realize that Seven had escaped through the gate from my lack of not shutting it correctly. Suddenly I heard a fury of dogs barking. I ran outside and my poor Seven was cornered by Elmer’s ten dogs. Luckily because of his thick coat he came out with only a scratch on his ear and one on his leg. Seven is a lover and not a fighter. He was traumatized and so was I. You have to remember that he was uprooted from his home where he had the full reign of 200 acres. He was lord of the manor. When we went venturing in the forests close to home, he was never one of those dogs that had to sniff every bum, he never had the need to romp and play with strange dogs. He had his favourites who used to come and visit. And now to be confronted by ten very territorial dogs was new to him as it was with me. And it was terrifying. What have I done? I cleaned his wounds and gave him big hugs and kisses. The gate is now always firmly closed and sadly we do not venture outside our little garden very often. There are still, almost three months later three of the ten dogs that will never accept Seven. One of them also makes a point of snarling at me every time I pass him.
Once on our outing to the corner store a man coming towards us with a really big strong pit bull harnessed to the gill was trying with all his might to get at Seven. This guy could hardly hold him back. Now Seven does not want to go down that street. He will not follow me. So I have to leash him or take him in the car to the football field close to the store. This is not what I had in mind. One day we parked at the entrance to the park and I checked to see if any dogs were there. I did not see any. We started to play frisbee and out of the blue a male boxer came charging. They both did the dance and it did not look good. The owner came running and basically gave me shit. Well excuse me, if you know your dog will be aggressive keep him on a damn leash when you know this park is used by owners and their dogs and don’t blame them. We went back to the car and waited for her to leave and let me tell you she took her sweet time. You see Seven is focused, focused on me. He does NOT want to play with other dogs, he wants to play frisbee. That’s his game.
Back at the house, there are four dogs that will now come into our little patch. Seven is happy with that. They too have no need to romp and play, they just all hang out together.
the tiniest one of all
friends hanging out
I have manged to brush all the knots and clumps from one of them and she is loving it.
loves the brush and attention
Still working slowly on the other. Don’t get me wrong, they are well fed and healthy but they never get brushed. But we are missing one element that I was hoping to do, taking Seven on long walks in the many forest trails in Tepoztlan. Will this happen? I hope so, we have to find a way. For me and for Seven.
Since arriving here, Seven has found his voice. He was a very quiet dog back in Holt only barking when he went for his night-time pee letting the wildlife know he was there. That was it. Now it is a totally different story. He will bark at any vehicle that approaches and anyone he does not recognize. He seems to be following the lead of the neighbouring ten dogs. I also find that many dogs who are penned in their yards do exactly the same thing. Is this the Mexican way? Is this a good thing? This is definitely one thing that I did not really think about when I was beginning my new life. Dealing with multiple free roaming dogs. They are not feral, they all have a home, well most do here in Tepoztlan but their life is different. There are many people here that treat dogs the way I do, the way I am used to as part of the family but there are also many people who treat their dogs with indifference. It is a difficult thing to get used to but we will. Seven and I will.
