Living in the climate and location that I am now in there are a number of insects that one has to learn to live with. Basically it is deal with it or move on. A whole array of species that are not in Canada. Like me, they hate the cold weather. I do not have a problem with them as long as they do not occupy my bed!
One big grasshopper
beautiful butterflyI’m watching you
There are a number of resident spiders that pose no fear but man some of them are quite large! One only has to tap the wall and they quickly move away. The one that I do though have a massive aversion to is a scorpion. Many moons ago while in Morocco, the lady I was travelling with from Australia came to me while I was enjoying the morning view having a coffee. Quietly she said, what do scorpions look like? Why do you ask I say. Well because of the rain that we had seen the day before, the first in five years, this particular scorpion had decided to take cover, in her bedroom. He was caught, put in a jar and then tormented until he died. That I did not like, just release him but I was not in control. The second time I came across a scorpion was last year when I was in Tepoztlan. Getting dressed one morning, I grab my socks and out drops a scorpion. Here he is and yes I freaked. I slept with the light on for the next few days as I was told they don’t like light. Now how true that is I have no idea!! These, although will give a nasty sting are not that bad apparently. It is the little beige ones that you should worry about. Great. Small and hard to see. But we won’t go there.
Scorpion
My next encounter was a few weeks ago. I had swept the porch and decided to throw buckets of water over to clean off the dust. Job nicely done, it was time for a beer. Well I looked down and there was this big scorpion heading straight for the front door. OMG if there was a camera you would all laugh. There was this scorpion which in reality does not want anything to do with me at all and if one compares my size to him, you get the picture. Here I am trying to manoeuvre this poor thing with chair. He was not happy and kept raising his tail which I could see was getting full of venom. The chair was not working. Grabbed the broom and swept him away. I furiously looked in the grass to see where he landed but never found him. I no longer throw buckets of water on the porch. I am sure there must be some under there living their life. Just don’t show your face to me or Seven please. After seeing Seven’s reaction to the praying mantis, I am sure he would scamper if he was faced with a scorpion. Hope so.
Now it is routine. Check the bed and shake everything before putting it on.
After a night on the sofa, if one can call it that, a bed to sleep on was top priority. Seven was fine, he had his and was not in the least concerned.
seven’s bed
Where do I get a bed? One would think a bed store. Yeah that’s great but there are no “bed stores” in Tepoztlan. One has to go to Cuernavaca or use the convenience of shopping on-line. I chose the latter. Now there are many choices. Many stores offer this but who do I choose? I decided to use Wal-Mart. They had the best price and I could use PayPal, double bonus. Order complete with a base and an added item, a Bodum coffee maker which I know many of friends will be amazed. But now you know that fresh coffee is available . I was told delivery would be within 7/10 days. So life on the couch had to get a little more experimental. Trust me, nothing worked. Sleep was literally fucking awful. Can’t put it any other way.
the dredded couch
As days go by, I start to track the process through FedEx (that’s who Wal-Mart use in Mexico). The mattress and the coffee maker were on their way. The base not so. I did not pay too much attention as I was informed that each item “could” be shipped separately. Finally after what felt like an eternity the mattress was gong to be delivered. But OMG I live somewhere that is really hard to find unless you live here if that makes sense. And FedEx kept telling me the address was wrong. Reminds me of living in Holt, Ontario where so many people had absolutely no idea that a house actually existed on my road, even the local cops. So I can deal with this, somewhat. After 3 attempts with phone calls to FedEx from my friend Maria and my landlady because there was no way I was capable of giving the directions over the phone, the mattress arrives. That night I am in heaven. After over two weeks on the ill-fitting couch, this was like being in the Four Seasons.
The same process happened again when FedEx wanted to deliver the coffee maker. Dude you were here last week remember. Again phone calls from my landlady to dispatch and the coffee maker was delivered. Still no sign of when the base will be delivered. I decided to cancel that and hope that I get my money back. At first Wal-Mart did not want to cancel my order and give me a refund, naturally. They told me it was back-ordered and that I have to wait until if was delivered and then return it for a refund. How insane is that? I told them they were crazy, you have taken my money for something that was not in stock and now cannot tell me when the bed base would be stock, let alone be delivered. WIth that my order was cancelled and my money refunded. No more shopping on-line with Wal-Mart.
Now I need to get the mattress off the floor. Yes for years I slept on a futon on the floor but those hippie days are over. I want and need a real bed off the floor. Having cancelled the base from Wal-Mart I really didn’t know where to go. I ask Elmer, my neighbour if he knows a carpenter that will make me one. He said I will take you there. Great!! Ten minutes later he is waiting at my gate to take me to the carpenter. I hand him the keys to my car and off we go to where I have no idea. We take the free road to Cuernavaca and pass through many small towns and then we hit Miguel Hidalgo where both sides of the street were lined with vendors selling anything you wanted in wood.
Vendors galore
Elmer’s friend was not there so we ventured to the next shop. I bought a base for my mattress and a single one that will serve as a guest bed and sofa. Done deal. Haha they asked if I wanted to put them on the roof of the car, umm no. Elmer the next day went back with his old trusty pick-up and brought them to me. He summoned some men to bring them inside for me.
After 3 weeks I had a bed. A comfy mattress off the floor. Seven looked and went finally mum, we have a bed! Now get this, in Canada I had a king size but down-sized to a queen. Wow, I notice the difference and so does Seven – not so big is it Seven? But he doesn’t seem to care.
After nine long days on the road with little sleep apart from in San Miguel, we made it. We were here in Tepoztlan, Pueblo Magico, Morelos, Mexico. WOW. You did it Stephanie. Now what?
After unloading the car it was time to decide what I was going to sleep on. I had no bed. My friend Maria had helped me get a fridge, table with chairs and a sofa but alas there was not time to purchase a bed. Thinking back I should have put emphasis on a bed. But here I was. The sofa is skinny and not long enough for my frame but it was all I had unless I wanted to sleep on the floor – no scrap that idea. So the sofa it was. I was so tired, the floor would have been just as good. Needless to say I was awake early. There was a whole list of things that had to be done. Water and gas to be ordered and food to purchase. I sat on the porch and thought where the hell to I begin! Lucky for me the landlady’s brother-in-law, Elmer lives across the street and delivers water. You will here much more of Elmer as time goes on. The tank was almost empty and took two loads to fill. Done. Then this truck comes down the dusty road tooting his horn and he is selling gas! Done.
gas!! now we are in business
Now we must find some food. Where do I go? I Really had no idea. To be honest I don’t think I went to the market in Tepoztlan that first day. I really cannot remember. I know I found the local store that would give me the basics but no food to speak of. I must have eaten but what? That is a long-lost memory now. For quite some time I used google to make my route out of here and still do! Tepoztlan is not a large town but to me then it was a twisted network of cobbled stone streets.
But for the most part that day was spent in a daze, emptying the boxes of stuff I had brought with me. This was not a holiday, this was it. This was home. I am not sure what Seven thought of the whole ordeal but he was beginning to meet the neighbours dogs. Elmer has 10 of them. Thank god I have a fenced yard as time will tell but this picking up dog poop is a real bummer. After 18 years of not having to worry about it as all my dogs including Seven would find a spot in the bush away from everything. Now I have to pick it up, the poop-and-scoop deal every day. Damn he poops a lot, I just never realized. One learns very early that eyes are down when walking either to make sure you don’t step in dog poop or trip over the cobbled stones. Many times I have tripped and only once stepped in poop. No looking up at the beautiful mountains that surround Tepoztlan while walking, stop then look up.
Seven was itching to run I could tell but for now we rest and look out at our domain.
I so did not want to leave San Miguel but we must move forward. This is our last day on the road – for now. Leaving Holt, Ontario many things crossed my mind. First what a crazy thing to do! Second, what the hell am I doing. Third and possibly the most important, I was following my dream. I feel that most people never ever thought that I would actually do it. How many women or men pack up and head out to a new life at 68? I too had my doubts whether I would grab that bull by the horn and actually go through with everything. Was I all talk and no action? Guess I was fool enough, strong enough, head strong enough, so why the hell not! In retrospect I wish I had taken longer to make the journey, taken the time to explore while I was travelling. But alas that also would have required more money which I did not have. Maybe next time.
The last leg of my journey was a sticky one for me. From San Miguel de Allende to my destination meant driving right through Mexico City. That I did not want to do. Not a chance. With my pigeon Spanish and trying to traverse through one of the most populated cities in the world it was not happening. What to do? I contacted a small tour company from San Miguel called Safe Trips SMA. Mara was supreme. The day before I sent her pictures of all the documents she needed. Mara was driving, Seven and I were passengers. What a joy that was going to be. The time was set for 8AM. I was awake way before that making sure I had everything in order and a couple of good cups of coffee. Mara was right on time. We loaded the few bags I had, put Seven in the car, said our good-byes to Hamish and paradise. And we were off.
Mara is Mexican and has countless years experience driving in Mexico and the US. But at the same time I was nervous. I have only driven this car for just over a week and to me it was like a damn truck compared to the Jeep I had driven for 17 years. But Mara climbed in and started driving it like she had owned it for years. I was unaware it was a holiday weekend in Mexico. Pretty hard to keep up with in Mexico because they have so many! Lucky for us because the highways were relatively quiet. Mara told me that usually driving through the city can take hours but we were sailing through. Coming closer to Mexico City she asked me what year the car is and the last number on my license plate. Kind of an odd question. I told her and she looked at me saying, really? All the information that I had read prior to the trip I cannot for the life of me remember reading anything about this. In Mexico City they are very adamant about keeping older cars off the road. And you must pay attention to the last number. My number was up. We were not supposed to be on the road. Holy Shit. If caught the car would be impounded, Mara could lose her license and I would be up shit’s creek with a bill that I could not afford. We purchased a pass for the over-pass. There was hardly any traffic and we booted it. Once safely out of the boundaries of Mexico City we did a high-five and fumbled through our bags to light a cigarette. Tense? Just a tad.
We are almost there. The road out of Mexico City to our destination is a highway that runs through the mountains. The highway gave us glimpses of the most active volcano in Mexico
Popocatépetl
Popocatépetl which has been more active since the devastating earth quake in September of this year.
Not far now. My friend Maria is meeting us at the only gas station in town to guide us to my new home. We made such good time everyone was amazed. Mara had places to go, people to see so there I was parked waiting for Maria. The clock was ticking. Maria was thinking the same, where are they. Finally we connect. She is at the other end of the station. It has been a year since I have seen her. We are both pretty speechless. I am in a daze.
Now it is time to follow Maria to the house. The brakes are squeaking. The road is bumpy. I have absolutely no idea where I am going. We arrive. Time to meet the landlady. Seven is sniffing every bush and we quickly make it to the front door. I am immediately told that I need to get water, I need to get gas. I am shown a room upstairs which has just been built. It is lovely. But I am told if I want it, it is and extra $1500 pesos a month. Whoa wait a second. You do realize that I have driven for the last 9 days I can’t take all this in right now.
Maria asks if I would like to get something to eat. Damn right, haven’t had a thing all day. I lock the door and get in her car. I have no idea where I am but I buy something to eat, buy some coffee and some things that I feel I will need. I had no idea. The plan was to wait for Maria to return but I needed to get back to the house. Order a taxi I am told. I did just that and guess what, we got lost. Just great. Luckily I was able to get Maria on her phone and she guided the driver to my house. I pay the driver and there is Seven in the yard. I forgot to shut the back door, thank god I shut the gate.
I spent the next couple of hours unloading the car and dragging everything to the house. There was no need really but this was it. We made it Seven.
Seven days on the road. Highways, motels, trucks, crappy food and my poor Seven not really knowing what was going on. I was exhausted yet wired to the gill. The road trip was not over yet but we took great refuge and thanks to my friend Hamish for letting us stay at his magnificent house in San Miguel de Allende. It made the seven days all worth it. His home in San Miguel is paradise. Nestled in the centre of the town behind brick walls and an unasuming door. Like many homes in Mexico, never ever judge the book by the cover. There is not the flamboyance of showing off to the passers-by as seen throughout North America. You just never know what you may find behind those mediocre looking garage doors.
casa de Hamish
Upon entering I was immediately hit with the smell of jasmine. Everything is open but private. I immediately felt relaxed and ready to rejuvenate.
reflect and rejuvenate
After a good sleep, the first one in seven really, I had coffee and took Seven for a little walk around the neighbourhood praying I would not get lost! Returning, our day started with a great traditional Mexican breakfast prepared by the lady who takes care of everything at the house except the garden who Seven kept occupied, it had been a full week of not chasing his favourite ball so he was in paradise also.
happy seven on the roof top
It was then time for me to see a little of San Miguel. I certainly need more than an afternoon but thankful of my friend Hamish taking me on the mini tour. What a beautiful town and the centre was buzzing with tourists.
San Miguel de Allende
In fact San Miguel was my first choice some years ago but it has become expensive. In fact San Miguel has been listed as one of THE places to retire and as more and more people move into the town it is getting difficult to find suitable accommodation so my search extended.
Enroute to dinner I found my wings and had a magnificent meal while listening to some great music from Bobby Kapp, a good friend of Hamish.
Time to walk back to paradise and have a good sleep, another busy day lays ahead of us as our journey continues.
Waking up in a house rather than a motel was like heaven. There is no comparison. Below are a few pictures of the house and garden. Arteaga is a place that I would like to visit again. If I am ever in that part of the woods again I would most definitely. I had promised the lady who ran the small restaurant where I had the most amazing coffee that I would return in the morning. Full intentions, yes but I had a long car ride ahead of me, so it was time to hit the road.
dining roomThe entrance
We were on our way from Arteaga to San Miguel de Allende to meet up with my friend Hamish who I have not seen in eons. This was my last day of driving which I will explain later. A brief look at my notes and off we go.
out of Arteaga
directions to San Miguel and Hamish
The road to San Miguel looked pretty straight forward. A six-hour drive skirting the big cities. Maps lie. Of course I should have realized that by now but that was all I had to go on. All was good until we hit St Luis Potosi. Often the ring roads are not the answer as I was told in Texas and I should have listened to those words. So I ended up going round in damn circles and at one point found myself on the highway to Guadalajara which was completely in the wrong direction. After back tracking and realizing when I asked directions to San Miguel, I have to go through St Luis, just try to keep an eye for the right highway number. Yeah right!!! Once we did that and were clear of the city we were on the right path again. Then suddenly traffic came to an abrupt stop. We were stuck. My head was now pounding because of no food. We were out of water. And nowhere to go. We had to suck it up and get through this. Trucks and more trucks.
grid lock to San Miguel
Seven did take some water thank god but I could tell he was not happy and neither was I. This lasted what seemed an eternity – 2 hours. I think there was an accident in a small town that we went through but by the time we passed through all that was left was the police tape and one cop directing traffic.
Finally we were through the traffic and once again motoring along. By this time I did not want to stop, all I needed to get to was San Miguel, my refuge for a couple of days. We made it, we were in San Miguel and for the life of me I could not find la casa de Hamish. Thankfully I was close and he met me and drove us to his home.
And WOW, Seven and I could have stayed there forever. Tonight there was a party for one of Hamish’s friends. The food was outstanding, the people were fantastic. And I was in a daze.
It was such a relief the end of day seven. We were both so happy.
Wake up time. Leash time. And wouldn’t you know it, they do serve breakfast. Guess it’s the proverbial left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing. Coffee and a doughnut and stashed some fruit. Problem is I never eat when I first wake up and after years it really is hard to force myself to eat when I can barely open my eyes. Listened to a lady’s tale of woe trying to get back into Mexico with her pets after years of marriage that only just fell apart. She was totally fretting because where she has to leave them in Mexico she is worried that they will not get the pampering they are used to. I know I have her email somewhere, I hope everything worked out for her.
We were not far from the border into Nuevo Laredo. Was I nervous? Damn right I was. I had many people give me pointers about the crossing, many who were concerned that I was alone and travelling in Mexico. All sorts of things were racing through my mind. Before anything though I had to put the sticker on the windshield sent to me from the Mexican government so I could drive my car in their country. That and fill the car up as gas is more expensive in Mexico but prices right near the border are not that special which does not surprise me at all. That done, passport, papers etc are ready for customs to see and give me the approval or not. And off we go. There is a bridge to cross the river for a small fee and then bang you are in Mexico. Obviously I got the green light although I didn’t see it and I was through check-point one. All the reading I did and route I carefully wrote fell apart immediately leaving customs. Bear left as soon as you leave customs.
page one of four today
Do not travel through Nuevo Laredo. Well that bear left could not have been more than ten feet out of customs and of course I missed it. So here I am driving through a town that everyone told me not to do. Great. I knew I had to make it to the road that goes around the town and that was to my left by all calculations. I made it, no problem but I see what everyone was concerned about, certainly not the place to park the car and hang out for awhile. Now safely on the right road we make our way to the next checkpoint which is about 30km from the border. Here is where they examine everything. Ok, Seven hang tight, let’s see what happens.
There are three customs men staring at me, my car packed with stuff and Seven remaining very still. They all look at my passport and ask where I am going. Then they start smiling and kind of laughing. Oh shit what now. They did not ask for any paperwork on the car, for Seven or ask to see the on-line visa I had. They were laughing at my middle name – Joy. Yep, that’s me, one big bundle of Joy. And with that I was in Mexico. It was all surreal. Nothing was scanned, nothing was checked. Had my passport back and was back on the highway heading towards Monterrey.
towards Monterrey
Trying to read my notes, take everything in while I am in a bit of a daze.
page 2
Page three
The road soon becomes quite different as we head into the Eastern Sierra Madre and the butterflies. Wow all the butterflies. There are even signs on the highway to slow down which I am not really sure is effective. It was really quite beautiful thousands of them in swarms. My welcome into Mexico. All is going well. I am staying on the paid highways and not the free “libre” roads. If one gets stuck, help will be there eventually so I was told. This was going to be my shortest day on the road and should have maxed at 4 hours. Up and down mountains I can feel the car struggling. Oh man please don’t fade on me now. Everything was fine and I am sticking to my route plan to get to my Airbnb reservation in Arteaga just outside Saltillo.
Well unknowingly I missed the damn turn.
Missed the turn
Stopped at a few places to ask directions and no-one knew Arteaga. Not surprising it is a small suburb really of Saltillo. Eventually one man was able to help me and I was basically an hour at least out of my way. Turn around and boot it back. I take the free road and not the paid highway which was fine but ended up west of Saltillo. And I was now lost. Stopped at a corner bar and these 2 gentlemen guided me in the right direction – I followed them to the highway. Still no Arteaga. It was getting late. I was freaking. I tried to call the owner of the place where I was booked for the night but to no avail. Now I was really freaking. Finally I get hold of her and she is in Cancun so sends a taxi driver to meet me and guide me to her house. Honestly I don’t think I would have found it by myself. We then look for the keys and they are not there. Off the taxi driver goes to get the keys. The house is beautiful. He then takes me to this small restaurant and I have the best coffee I have ever had, seriously. I walk back to the house and grab some beer, have a shower and let out this huge sigh of relief and settle in for the night. Seven was happy, he had a whole house and a backyard!!
