The theory is to leave Mexico every 180 days to maintain a somewhat legal status in my little piece of paradise. I had only left in September but my Mum graciously offered to pay for my fare to Toronto for Christmas. How could I possibly say no? Now the frantic push to find someone to stay at my place to look after Seven and Stella. After much fretting, a friend who frequents Tepoztlan in the winter months needed a place to stay, so it all worked out. Seven of course questioned my actions, Stella was indifferent as she was busy chasing mice and getting cuddles from another visitor or trying to get Seven to play!
The pictures will tell the story. It was a whirlwind visit but so glad I went. Cannot beat family.
After the flurry of last month, it was great to settle into some kind of routine before my next visitors arrive. The focus of course to include my best friends Seven and Stella whenever possible which was not difficult as we lived in such a beautiful little piece of paradise, I seldom went far. As Seven, Stella and I (now known as the 3 S’s) we continued to make our presence known and the flow of visitors continue much to Seven and Stella’s delight.
The wind in Tepoztlan can at times be wicked and weak old trees can and will cause damage. Luckily this huge branch missed the water tank and the room where the gas is hooked up. No-one was hurt but I am sure the mice, lizards, ants and scorpions were not impressed
My next guest was Julie, a friend of my best friend’s son and wow did we have a blast! One day while at the local artesian market enjoying the atmosphere we indulged in a local drink called pulque – (Pulque, or octli, is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the maguey plant. It is traditional in central Mexico, where it has been produced for millennia. It has the color of milk, a rather viscous consistency and a sour yeast-like taste). Everything was fine until the next day……we were both laden with a severe case of diarrhea not wanting to move too far from the bathroom which lasted almost a week. Of course all my Mexican friends were in stitches over our predicament. Julie and I were NOT amused! Never will either of us will ever let another drop of pulque pass our lips. Need your digestive system cleaned out, I have the remedy! It was sad to see Julie leave but she had more to see and do in Mexico before heading back to Germany.
While waiting with such excitement for my best friend Christine to arrive with Laura I tried to remain busy. Not only with Seven and Stella but with my new friends baking cakes. Every couple of weeks we would all arrive at Pascal’s house and Jose gave us each a particular job to do while we sipped on beer, wine or whatever was on the table along with those enormous joints like we all used to roll back in the 60’s. We sure did bake cakes to remember. Be careful these cakes we made were quite potent and very tasty! I also took some time to bring out the artist in me by enhancing my zentangles with the dogs forever at my side.
Chris and Laura were here for a week and we packed in as much as possible before they were off to see the incoming migration of the Monarch butterflies. Tepoztlan is a small town but there is much to observe. As I mentioned, it was so much fun to see the town through my visitors eyes. I saw things that were missed in my day to day activity. And they get to see Tepoz so much better than the average tourista. It was wonderful to see them both and very sad to see them leave. We made a promise that this will not be the only time.
When they left, the house felt empty. It is difficult at times but then Seven and Stella always remind me that life is good. Without them life would be empty and the journey much different.
Not only was I getting to know the lay of the land so to speak. My home, the neighbourhood and new friends. Seven and Stella were also learning the routine. It was the first home I felt I could leave them outside safely and not be cooped inside. This meant constantly checking for Stella escape routes being the escape artist she is. Consequently Stella took guard top of one of the large cement columns at the entrance to the property and Seven choose the porch. That said, I never left them long and I was the one who brought them treats home. That’s when I started feeding them more raw meat, yogurt, cooked oats, vegetables. They loved it. I mean who would want to eat the same thing day after day after day. Yep, I spoil my dogs.
When you relocate to a foreign land, one naturally wants to connect with friends and show what a magnificent place Tepoztlan is. And of course show them my home, where I am so happy. It is interesting to find myself not only enjoying having the company and in the process I am seeing Tepoztlan from their eyes, a visitor to this magical land. The dogs sure didn’t mind the extra pets!
It was also time for me to exit Mexico as my visa was due to expire. My first real exit from Mexico since crossing the border on November 2017. If you are unaware of what happened, this post will explain. So within days of my first guest leaving, I was off to Toronto, to see my family and friends. Lots to think about and organize. First on the list is who will take care of my place and look after the loves of my life? That was settled quickly and off I go. I found out that they were having a blast with walks in the mountains. I was jealous! That was the start of my friend Pamela’s journey of having dogs. She now has four…..more on that later. Here is a taste of what she is doing. The food is excellent, atmosphere is amazing. So proud of her.
It was great to see everyone and wander around the streets of Toronto. A week passes very quickly with much to do and many people to see. This is how it will be every six months. And that’s OK with me.
Bending the law a wee bit. It could be touchy upon my return. Yet thousands of people do the same journey every six months. A quick exit and return. Trust me though it was always nerve racking for me. All it takes is one border official to scrutinize your passport and start with more questions. It has happened and from what I hear, more often than years gone by. Sure didn’t want to spend more time at a deportation centre. There you would be, literally hung in unbalance with everything at a place you cannot go. It was the chance I took to live in what I considered my little paradise. I had faith that I will sail through and resume my life in Tepoz.
It’s time to investigate my surroundings and discover why this house is so special.
not far from the front gate!
The front of the house faced the river but on high ground to prevent flooding – wise choice! Because sometimes when it rains the river will rise to meet the front gate! On days like that, one stays in the house! Wherever in this world, I do not understand why people build a house right by the river, one is just asking for trouble. Look at farmers in the past, they built there homes on the highest point of their land for a reason. Yes hauling water would be more difficult but when those rains come, the family would be thankful.
temple view
When it was deemed that the road beside my house needed to be widened by adding two more lanes an unexpected discovery was made – a small temple was found. Construction was then stopped until such time archeologists could unearth and rebuild to a degree. Standing on this site one can see the main temple of Tepoztlan where most tourists will climb. I can only assume that the position of the temple was built perhaps as a look-out as you can see the valleys below that now make Tepoztlan. The hills beside the highway have not been researched to any great extent and I am sure they still hold many secrets. You can read a little about it here, it should auto translate for you. Construction in Mexico takes a long time is an understatement. When the general election was held, all work ceased on the highway and the temple because a new party had taken power. It actually took two years before any further work was done on the highway and further reconstruction of the temple.
Back to the rain. Tepoztlan has two seasons – wet and dry. The rain usually holds off til mid afternoon which gives one time to explore or to shop without getting wet. There are days though when it will rain all day. Seven and Stella are not impressed. But wow the fauna does grow quickly!
Being the rainy season I soon discovered a massive leak on the main floor and one in the bathroom. Once again, construction in Mexico is slow. Nothing could be done until the end of the wet season which will be another couple of months. Time to buy some buckets!
I could not complain though. My bedroom/workspace on the third floor was dry and had a magnificent view of the mountains that surround Tepoztlan and in the morning of the active volcano. I am the blue dot in the screen shot, just a two hour drive.
Stella managed to find mice in the house. I tried to save them but she was too quick. We found the nest or what was left and quickly cleaned it up. I also learned that absolutely no food to be left on the counter, unless one wants to have ants of all kinds and more mice take up home. The house is old, the windows are not sealed as one is used to coming from Canada but all is OK. As most of you know, I love all animals and would not kill any intentionally. Scorpions though, I am sorry, you take your life in your own hands and will not survive if I see you in my house. They really do give me the creeps. It is said that scorpions do not like lavender. Perhaps that is why most houses have abundant lavender plants. I bought many. Did it help? Not really sure!
I was beginning to understand why this house was special. The river. The temple. The volcano, The valley. It was home.
The day finally arrived. Seven and Stella could feel my excitement I am sure with me pacing in anticipation. Having only been in Mexico for a mere seven months with no more than I could fit in my car, I was amazed at how much I had accumulated. Basic stuff – a bed, a table and chairs, small chest of drawers and of course my another dog, Stella.
I definitely needed some muscle to help me move, so I hired two men and a truck, literally. Two loads with me and the 2 dogs crammed in the front seat. Luckily it was not too far. I did feel sorry for the men though with the many uneven shitty steps to bring my wares down and then more, although good stairs to carry them up upon arrival at the new abode. They did a stellar job. A few plants were left behind which I reluctantly returned to the house of doom to retrieve the following week.
Finally when the men left, I sat down on the porch and overlooked what was heaven to me. I had such good feelings surround me. The dogs were joyous. They now had almost an acre to play in with many trees including a white grapefruit tree! I felt that I had finally arrived home, a place I could hang my hat. A place to grow. We all slept well that night.
My first job the next day was to secure the best I could any escape possibilities for my gypsy Stella, the extraordinary escape artist. She will find any exit, trust me on this. Seven, no problem, he would never leave. And over the course of the following few weeks I will make this house my home. The transformation came quickly. We all settled in much faster than expected. Seven and Stella become best friends which was what I wanted. Stella was always convinced that everyone loves her, whether you have four legs or two. Seven on the other hand was and still is extremely cautious who he accepts into his fold.
Great plans need work and time. My plan for the front of the house immediately came to light – to expand it with local fauna. The back of the house I’ll just leave to grow wild, there was no need to transform it to manicured space. Leave it for the wildlife that called it their home – the lizards, spiders, owls, birds, possums, mice and god forbid scorpions. But we all deserve some space, right?
It was just a short walk over the small river in front of the house to the local village, Ixcatepec which provided me with just about everything I needed. Naturally being in a small village, I was soon recognized as the new gringo but quickly made friends with people who have lived here all their life. The language barrier can be a terrible hinderance but you make the effort and so do they. And life continues.
Over the next few weeks I came across many things why this house was so special and why I had such good feelings. One can argue that structures do not hold any more purpose than the reason they were were built. But honestly this place held a special vibe. There was a river in front. There was a recently discovered temple behind the house that when standing on it you can see the main temple of Tepoztlan. And from the room at the top of the house which became “my” room you could see the tallest and most active volcano in Mexico, Popocatépetl. Seriously, this place is magical. You will read more of the magic soon.
Naturally I needed to invite my new friends to my new home. One has to have, needs to have a welcoming party. And that I did. Because I had made it home. I was the happiest I had been in a long time. After years of dreaming the 3 S’s – Seven, Stella and I have arrived.
The only person to blame for the lack of continuing to move forward with The Journey is me. I could give multiple reasons but what’s the point? Yes we have been busy, very busy but that is no excuse. For now I will add month by month or multiple months at a time till we are up to-date. Yikes, which ever way I do this, it is a lot of writing to do. Seven says yep mum you have been slacking big time. There is so much to add, so many changes. New friends, old friends, joys and sadness which are all part of our journey.
June 2018, we said goodbye to some furry friends which are never easy.
saying goodbye is never easy
Even a delightful furry moth settled in for a few days to say goodbye.
It is said that changes are good. I have never had so many home changes in such a short period of time and I begin to question that. But we move forward, Seven, Stella and I bracing the changes that are about to unfold.
Of course there have been many updates on this platform, so once again I am on a learning curve. I hope that you will enjoy the Journey, it’s quite the roller coaster ride.
Finally I saw our new home. I was pretty much silent while I sat on the couch after I looked at what could possibly be where we will hang our hats. Inside I was ecstatic, could not believe what I had stumbled upon. I walked back to the house of doom with a smile full of promises. I would be happy, the dogs would be joyous. Finally, I could live the dream.
The house was huge. The garden was huge. Beside a river. Beside a new found pyramid. The view from the third floor, my bedroom, was a room that anyone would fall in love with where in the mornings one can see Popocatépetl, the biggest active volcano in Mexico (known locally as Popo). And the price was right. All I needed now was the approval of the landlord. I admit I went there with all my fingers and toes crossed. This has to be the one.
All went well with the landlady. Honestly, I did not understand a word she said (thank god I had someone there to translate) but she liked me and welcomed me with open arms. All I had to do was give her money and wait until the end of the following month to move in. We can do this. We can wait. Thankfully that saying all good things come to those who wait was proving true to me. Here are a couple of pictures…..
entrancethe house
Meanwhile I was dealing with Miss Stella, the escape artist who will take ANY opportunity to run to ‘freedom’. I tried to the best of my ability to secure the fence but to no avail. Yes she came back, sometimes on her own but mostly by people who found her. You will hear more of that over the following months. Little bugger but I do love her.
I also became so very sick that I thought would be the end of me. For the record, I have or should I say used to have a stomach of steel, meaning I could eat anything and not get sick. Well a little parasite decided to squash that and play havoc with me. I felt that I was fading away. Nothing, absolutely nothing stayed with me. After 3 weeks of medication from the regular doctor and holistic practitioner, I was on the mend. What did I eat? I narrowed it down to some fruit that I had not cleaned. Now consequently, I clean everything with Microdyn that kills those nasty little bugs before they find a home in my tummy. Lesson learned!
While we wait for the move, nothing like celebrating with friends a little drop of Mezcal …….
I became unsure of my decision that I made 6 months prior. Literally I was a mess. To have a man hound you for money daily for work that I did not agree to including knocking on my door. I started to get scared. I started to sell things to lighten my load. I was seeking a ride to the border and then a ride to Canada. Not an easy feat with 2 dogs under my wing. I flatly refuse to put them in a crate and in the bellows of an airplane. As we all know, dogs can read your emotions and they too were feeling the fear, the unknown. I was lost in paradise.
Then one day while in tears, my friend sat me down and told me not to runaway. Told me I was a warrior (not in the literal sense) with what I had done and been through and I should not let any man stop me from living my dream. With new gained confidence I stopped everything and began looking for a new place to live. The wonderful little house I had was now a bad omen, I hated it. Bad for my new addition, Stella too. Sadly I had to have her chained as she was an escape artist. But she still managed to escape at least once a week. We were getting desperate.
Stella Chained
Looking for a new placed became my focus. One would think being April when all the snowbirds have left it would be easy but that was far from the truth. Many people have taken to Airbnb because they make more money which sucks for people looking for long term rentals. And prices were going up which is one thing I could not afford. Even started looking at other towns but in reality it would have been silly at that point. I was asking everyone I knew. I saw some great places and some damn awful ones. Almost took one that was out of town. It was perfect. Price was right surrounded by fields. But I declined. Flies can be a big problem and with a horse paddock right behind my back door, I and my dogs would be bothered by more than flies!! Also the landlords uncle next door bred bulls for the ring and the guy next door bred fighting cocks. There was no way I could deal with that. If you know anything about bull and cock fights you will understand. Animals bred to fight for human entertainment is cruel and I did not want to live next to that.
As luck would have it I asked a friend who had a lovely cheese shop if she knew of any house that was vacant. Without missing a beat, she said I could have her place as she was leaving the country. One draw back, it would not be available til the end of June. No problem. I felt we could stick it out in the house of doom for a couple more months. But first I must look at the house and be vetted by the landlord. More on that soon but my god it sounded perfect.
I went home and curled up with Seven and Stella. Told them, things are looking up, hang in there, all will be good soon.
It has been awhile since I have written – in actual fact WAY TOO LONG. Lots of ups and downs this past year. l felt as did Seven and Stella a little lost to say the least. No matter what one says, animals feel your emotions. Mexico is a big country, do I really want to hang my hat in one place? At the moment most definitely. More on that later.
So now that I have settled, as much as one can, I will continue with this blog. The journey with Seven. I will do my best to update both you (whoever is listening) and myself of the past 15/16 months by referring to pictures. Think I will post month by month … sounds like a good idea.
We have a new additions to the family which you will hear about. Life is good, very good.
Most of all be kind to your fur friends, whether they live in the same house or ones on the street. Everyone needs that love.
Many of you know the story. Me packing up and leaving my comfort zone. Headed south to Mexico with a few belongings and my dog, my best friend Seven. We crossed the US/Mexico border without a question. “Have a nice time” they told me. And for 5 months that is exactly what I did with a few little hic-ups along the way.
March 15th. I decided not to cook that day, I wanted to go again to this fabulous little café down the road. Put on some clean clothes, told the dogs to be good and I will be back soon. It was around 12:30, the sun was shining and the café was just around the corner, well a leisurely 25 minute walk. Suddenly without warning there was a van from the Mexican Migration and 2 cops on their 4-wheelers. Pasaporte y papel, por favor. Now because of my easy entry into Mexico by car, my passport was not stamped. So as far as the Mexican Migration were concerned, I was there illegally. Yes I take part and only a very tiny part of the blame here for not insisting that my passport be stamped, but I had the paper work for the car and my Seven, so I did not worry.
I tell everyone my story but they do not believe me. As the title say, Truth without Proof ain’t worth Shit. I am finger printed, photographed and told to remove all my jewellery and hand everything over including cell phones. I cannot return to my house. My dogs. My Seven, my Stella. They were my only concern at that point, my babies. It was obvious that I could not go back to house. My dear friend saved the day, went to feed and play with my dogs and she brought my passport which I was told I needed or it could be longer that I would be held. How long? I was never told. I was given a meal and told to sleep. A 10×10 room is what I had with 2 bunk beds. I am thankful that there were no other “illegals” with me. Eventually I found myself signing a whole bunch of papers that I was told would allow me to re-enter Mexico. Six hours have gone by. By this time I am a nervous wreck. I cannot stop shaking, crying with both anger and fear. I manage to get a couple of hours sleep and I am told that I must be taken to the migration centre in Mexico City and be kept there until “my case” is reviewed and a decision is made on what they are going to do. At this point only a handful of people know what has happened. And truth be known did I? I had no idea that my friends and family were working to resolve this and get me home. I had no access to the outside world.
I was given the essentials to clean myself and then the ride to Mexico City in the same van followed by a police car. Arrival at the deportation place. Again everything has to be handed over. I am given a bag with the essentials, 2 blankets, a quick body search, more papers to sign and then the door opens into where I stayed for eight days. Eight days of my life that I will never ever forget. This is the only picture I can find of the centre I was in, taken in 2008 from this article. Really not much has changed in 10 years.
deportation centre
Cold showers, no towel, sign for toilet paper, sign for 3 meals a day which looked like something the dog threw up, line up for detergent, line up for diapers or sanitary towels. Phone calls can only be made certain times of the day. And my God if you asked one minute after the alloted times, you missed your opportunity. One day this guy came in and was blabbing about something for half an hour. When I asked if I could make a phone call, he said no it is past time. I said yeah, cos you have talked for half an hour so I missed it. He let me make it but when I called my friend was not home! The gate to the dormitories was closed around 10 and not opened til 9am the following morning after the head count. No lights out, you sleep with bright flourescent lights. The yard was size of maybe 2 basketball courts. Walls of 12 feet and topped with barbed wire and was watched by employees of a security company. Making us wait to go outside was crazy – where were we going to go? Not unless we grew wings. The excuse was so the place would be cleaned. Mexico is ripe with fresh vegetables and fruit at amazingly low cost, there was no reason why the food should be so bad. In 8 days I had one orange, 2 slices of lime and one piece of watermelon. The odd colour of the vegetables in the food made it hard to decipher what it was. The food was served on styrofoam plates and make sure you damage it before throwing it away. I was told that the plates were taken from the garbage, rinsed and reused the next meal.
I think I was the first Canadian there as the international dialling code was not written in one of their many books. You are allowed one free phone call a week. So you better have all your facts together not to miss the window. Every federal migration officer I spoke with knows that there is a serious problem with land border crossings. I said fix it! They said that is never going to happen. I arrived on Friday and then it was yet another holiday in Mexico, so nothing would be done until Tuesday. I wasn’t sure if I could make it. My friends told me to be strong. It was really difficult. You are helpless. You are a number. You are nothing. Your life is in the hands of strangers. I now know what it feels like to be a caged animal pacing, pacing, pacing.
As the days meld into each other, one becomes numb, void of any feelings. Then there were days when I felt I could take no more and I would sit there and cry. One family took me under their wing. They were from El Salvador and seeking asylum in Mexico, because if they returned, they would die. They had already been there 35 days. She was a strong woman and gave me strength while I was there. I missed them when their day came for them to leave but so happy for them. I intend to keep in touch. There were many who were looking to go to the US from Honduras, Guatemala, Chile, Peru caught before they made the border and sent back to their home countries. Many escaping abusive relationships with kids in tow and/or pregnant. Their lives on hold as mine was.
Daily I was worried about Seven and Stella. They are my life. But I shouldn’t have been, my friend arranged to put them in this kennel very close to where I live. They were safe and looked after by an amazing couple who run Caralampio and their Facebook page where these pictures came from.
kennel time
Seven at camp
Stella at camp
Now it was mid-week and by now the lawyer who my friends and mum paid for was working on getting me out at any time. Manana, manana. I know things move slower in Mexico, but for me these days were an eternity. The day finally arrived. Friday March 23rd. I was told that the migration agents who picked me up 8 days ago would be taking me to the airport at 4pm and bringing with them my passport so I could leave the country. I was not deported and there is no record of me being in Mexico illegally for the past 5 months.
With a flurry I was told to grab my belongings and the 2 blankets that were given me. I was leaving and it was way before 4pm. More papers to sign. Grab my things that were put in a safe, check that they are all there and then back in the van to the airport. Walking through the airport terminal with 2 immigration officers get quite a lot of looks. Yep, I am the bad ass Canadian lady of 68 years being sent out of the country, have a good gander. Many checks, more forms to sign. They stay with me until I am walking down the ramp to the plane. I feel for them, do they feel like shit? I bloody hope so.
The free flight back to Canada with Aero Mexico was great and I took full advantage of the free booze, I figured I deserved it at this point. You know how one always complains or hears complaints of bad food on planes? Well let me tell you it was like heaven to me and I must have devoured it within 5 minutes, right down to the last bread crumb. Settled down to a some shows and began to relax a little. Customs in Canada, yes I was questioned. I was away for 5 months, declaring nothing and carrying only a small back pack. They had to make sure I didn’t have a kilo of cocaine on me. My best friend met me and drove me to my mum’s.
What now? After 3 busy days back in Toronto filled with tears and laughter, I have returned to Mexico. My passport has been stamped and I am legal for 180days. I have my dogs, my best friends back. Where I wonder will I go from here?
