Category: Tepoztlan

Trouble in Paradise

Trouble in Paradise

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Upon moving into my new home, I wanted to meet the neighbours. And so did Seven. He and I quickly made good friends with one of the ten dogs that Elmer has. At first I thought she was snarling at me but no she was smiling, curling her top lip and wagging her tail. She soon became a permanent fixture on the porch and slowly made her way to my heart and the single bed/couch.

she found the bed

She enjoyed the brushes I was giving her every day she graced us with her presence. She also knows exactly when feed time is and stands at the gate staring, pleading with me to come in for food. How could I resist.They have a good diet but obviously the kibble was a real treat for her.

feed time

One day while inside, I did not realize that Seven had escaped through the gate from my lack of not shutting it correctly. Suddenly I heard a fury of dogs barking. I ran outside and my poor Seven was cornered by Elmer’s ten dogs. Luckily because of his thick coat he came out with only a scratch on his ear and one on his leg. Seven is a lover and not a fighter. He was traumatized and so was I. You have to remember that he was uprooted from his home where he had the full reign of 200 acres. He was lord of the manor. When we went venturing in the forests close to home, he was never one of those dogs that had to sniff every bum, he never had the need to romp and play with strange dogs. He had his favourites who used to come and visit. And now to be confronted by ten very territorial dogs was new to him as it was with me. And it was terrifying. What have I done? I cleaned his wounds and gave him big hugs and kisses. The gate is now always firmly closed and sadly we do not venture outside our little garden very often. There are still, almost three months later three of the ten dogs that will never accept Seven. One of them also makes a point of snarling at me every time I pass him.

Once on our outing to the corner store a man coming towards us with a really big strong pit bull harnessed to the gill was trying with all his might to get at Seven. This guy could hardly hold him back. Now Seven does not want to go down that street. He will not follow me. So I have to leash him or take him in the car to the football field close to the store. This is not what I had in mind. One day we parked at the entrance to the park and I checked to see if any dogs were there. I did not see any. We started to play frisbee and out of the blue a male boxer came charging. They both did the dance and it did not look good. The owner came running and basically gave me shit. Well excuse me, if you know your dog will be aggressive keep him on a damn leash when you know this park is used by owners and their dogs and don’t blame them. We went back to the car and waited for her to leave and let me tell you she took her sweet time. You see Seven is focused, focused on me. He does NOT want to play with other dogs, he wants to play frisbee. That’s his game.

Back at the house, there are four dogs that will now come into our little patch. Seven is happy with that. They too have no need to romp and play, they just all hang out together.

the tiniest one of all
friends hanging out

I have manged to brush all the knots and clumps from one of them and she is loving it.

loves the brush and attention

Still working slowly on the other. Don’t get me wrong, they are well fed and healthy but they never get brushed. But we are missing one element that I was hoping to do, taking Seven on long walks in the many forest trails in Tepoztlan. Will this happen? I hope so, we have to find a way. For me and for Seven.

Since arriving here, Seven has found his voice. He was a very quiet dog back in Holt only barking when he went for his night-time pee letting the wildlife know he was there. That was it. Now it is a totally different story. He will bark at any vehicle that approaches and anyone he does not recognize. He seems to be following the lead of the neighbouring ten dogs. I also find that many dogs who are penned in their yards do exactly the same thing. Is this the Mexican way? Is this a good thing?  This is definitely one thing that I did not really think about when I was beginning my new life. Dealing with multiple free roaming dogs. They are not feral, they all have a home, well most do here in Tepoztlan but their life is different. There are many people here that treat dogs the way I do, the way I am used to as part of the family but there are also many people who treat their dogs with indifference. It is a difficult thing to get used to but we will. Seven and I will.

Scorpions

Scorpions

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Living in the climate and location that I am now in there are a number of insects that one has to learn to live with. Basically it is deal with it or move on. A whole array of species that are not in Canada. Like me, they hate the cold weather.  I do not have a problem with them as long as they do not occupy my bed!

One big grasshopper

 

beautiful butterfly
I’m watching you

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are a number of resident spiders that pose no fear but man some of them are quite large! One only has to tap the wall and they quickly move away. The one that I do though have a massive aversion to is a scorpion. Many moons ago while in Morocco, the lady I was travelling with from Australia came to me while I was enjoying the morning view having a coffee. Quietly she said, what do scorpions look like? Why do you ask I say. Well because of the rain that we had seen the day before, the first in five years, this particular scorpion had decided to take cover, in her bedroom. He was caught, put in a jar and then tormented until he died. That I did not like, just release him but I was not in control. The second time I came across a scorpion was last year when I was in Tepoztlan.  Getting dressed one morning, I grab my socks and out drops a scorpion. Here he is and yes I freaked. I slept with the light on for the next few days as I was told they don’t like light. Now how true that is I have no idea!! These, although will give a nasty sting are not that bad apparently. It is the little beige ones that you should worry about. Great. Small and hard to see. But we won’t go there.

Scorpion

My next encounter was a few weeks ago. I had swept the porch and decided to throw buckets of water over to clean off the dust. Job nicely done, it was time for a beer. Well I looked down and there was this big scorpion heading straight for the front door. OMG if there was a camera you would all laugh. There was this scorpion which in reality does not want anything to do with me at all and if one compares my size to him, you get the picture. Here I am trying to manoeuvre this poor thing with chair. He was not happy and kept raising his tail which I could see was getting full of venom. The chair was not working. Grabbed the broom and swept him away. I furiously looked in the grass to see where he landed but never found him. I no longer throw buckets of water on the porch. I am sure there must be some under there living their life. Just don’t show your face to me or Seven please.  After seeing Seven’s reaction to the praying mantis, I am sure he would scamper if he was faced with a scorpion. Hope so.

Now it is routine. Check the bed and shake everything before putting it on.

The Bed

The Bed

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After a night on the sofa, if one can call it that, a bed to sleep on was top priority.  Seven was fine, he had his and was not in the least concerned.

seven’s bed

Where do I get a bed? One would think a bed store. Yeah that’s great but there are no “bed stores” in Tepoztlan. One has to go to Cuernavaca or use the convenience of shopping on-line. I chose the latter. Now there are many choices. Many stores offer this but who do I choose? I decided to use Wal-Mart. They had the best price and I could use PayPal, double bonus. Order complete with a base and an added item, a Bodum coffee maker which I know many of friends will be amazed. But now you know that fresh coffee is available . I was told delivery would be within 7/10 days. So life on the couch had to get a little more experimental. Trust me, nothing worked. Sleep was literally fucking awful. Can’t put it any other way.

the dredded couch

As days go by, I start to track the process through FedEx (that’s who Wal-Mart use in Mexico). The mattress and the coffee maker were on their way. The base not so. I did not pay too much attention as I was informed that each item “could” be shipped separately. Finally after what felt like an eternity the mattress was gong to be delivered. But OMG I live somewhere that is really hard to find unless you live here if that makes sense. And FedEx kept telling me the address was wrong. Reminds me of living in Holt, Ontario where so many people had absolutely no idea that a house actually existed on my road, even the local cops. So I can deal with this, somewhat. After 3 attempts with phone calls to FedEx from my friend Maria and my landlady because there was no way I was capable of giving the directions over the phone, the mattress arrives. That night I am in heaven. After over two weeks on the ill-fitting couch, this was like being in the Four Seasons.

The same process happened again when FedEx wanted to deliver the coffee maker. Dude you were here last week remember. Again phone calls from my landlady to dispatch and the coffee maker was delivered. Still no sign of when the base will be delivered. I decided to cancel that and hope that I get my money back. At first Wal-Mart did not want to cancel my order and give me a refund, naturally. They told me it was back-ordered and that I have to wait until if was delivered and then return it for a refund. How insane is that? I told them they were crazy, you have taken my money for something that was not in stock and now cannot tell me when the bed base would be stock, let alone be delivered. WIth that my order was cancelled and my money refunded. No more shopping on-line with Wal-Mart.

Now I need to get the mattress off the floor. Yes for years I slept on a futon on the floor but those hippie days are over. I want and need a real bed off the floor. Having cancelled the base from Wal-Mart I really didn’t know where to go. I ask Elmer, my neighbour if he knows a carpenter that will make me one. He said I will take you there. Great!! Ten minutes later he is waiting at my gate to take me to the carpenter. I hand him the keys to my car and off we go to where I have no idea. We take the free road to Cuernavaca and pass through many small towns and then we hit Miguel Hidalgo where both sides of the street were lined with vendors selling anything you wanted in wood.

Vendors galore

Elmer’s friend was not there so we ventured to the next shop. I bought a base for my mattress and a single one that will serve as a guest bed and sofa.  Done deal. Haha they asked if I wanted to put them on the roof of the car, umm no. Elmer the next day went back with his old trusty pick-up and brought them to me. He summoned some men to bring them inside for me.

After 3 weeks I had a bed. A comfy mattress off the floor. Seven looked and went finally mum, we have a bed! Now get this, in Canada I had a king size but down-sized to a queen.  Wow, I notice the difference and so does Seven – not so big is it Seven? But he doesn’t seem to care.

finally the bed
your bed is waiting
We Made It

We Made It

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After nine long days on the road with little sleep apart from in San Miguel, we made it. We were here in Tepoztlan, Pueblo Magico, Morelos, Mexico. WOW. You did it Stephanie. Now what?

After unloading the car it was time to decide what I was going to sleep on. I had no bed. My friend Maria had helped me get a fridge, table with chairs and a sofa but alas there was not time to purchase a bed. Thinking back I should have put emphasis on a bed. But here I was. The sofa is skinny and not long enough for my frame but it was all I had unless I wanted to sleep on the floor – no scrap that idea. So the sofa it was. I was so tired, the floor would have been just as good. Needless to say I was awake early. There was a whole list of things that had to be done. Water and gas to be ordered and food to purchase. I sat on the porch and thought where the hell to I begin! Lucky for me the landlady’s brother-in-law, Elmer lives across the street and delivers water. You will here much more of Elmer as time goes on. The tank was almost empty and took two loads to fill.  Done. Then this truck comes down the dusty road tooting his horn and he is selling gas! Done.

gas!! now we are in business

Now we must find some food. Where do I go? I Really had no idea. To be honest I don’t think I went to the market in Tepoztlan that first day. I really cannot remember. I know I found the local store that would give me the basics but no food to speak of.  I must have eaten but what? That is a long-lost memory now.  For quite some time I used google to make my route out of here and still do! Tepoztlan is not a large town but to me then it was a twisted network of cobbled stone streets.  

But for the most part that day was spent in a daze, emptying the boxes of stuff I had brought with me. This was not a holiday, this was it. This was home. I am not sure what Seven thought of the whole ordeal but he was beginning to meet the neighbours dogs. Elmer has 10 of them. Thank god I have a fenced yard as time will tell but this picking up dog poop is a real bummer. After 18 years of not having to worry about it as all my dogs including Seven would find a spot in the bush away from everything. Now I have to pick it up, the poop-and-scoop deal every day. Damn he poops a lot, I just never realized. One learns very early that eyes are down when walking either to make sure you don’t step in dog poop or trip over the cobbled stones. Many times I have tripped and only once stepped in poop. No looking up at the beautiful mountains that surround Tepoztlan while walking, stop then look up.

Seven was itching to run I could tell but for now we rest and look out at our domain.

look out first day

 

Last Day on the Road

Last Day on the Road

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I so did not want to leave San Miguel but we must move forward. This is our last day on the road – for now.  Leaving Holt, Ontario many things crossed my mind. First what a crazy thing to do! Second, what the hell am I doing. Third and possibly the most important, I was following my dream. I feel that most people never ever thought that I would actually do it. How many women or men pack up and head out to a new life at 68? I too had my doubts whether I would grab that bull by the horn and actually go through with everything. Was I all talk and no action? Guess I was fool enough, strong enough, head strong enough, so why the hell not! In retrospect I wish I had taken longer to make the journey, taken the time to explore while I was travelling. But alas that also would have required more money which I did not have. Maybe next time.

The last leg of my journey was a sticky one for me. From San Miguel de Allende to my destination meant driving right through Mexico City. That I did not want to do. Not a chance. With my pigeon Spanish and trying to traverse through one of the most populated cities in the world it was not happening. What to do? I contacted a small tour company from San Miguel called Safe Trips SMA. Mara was supreme. The day before I sent her pictures of all the documents she needed. Mara was driving, Seven and I were passengers. What a joy that was going to be. The time was set for 8AM. I was awake way before that making sure I had everything in order and a couple of good cups of coffee. Mara was right on time. We loaded the few bags I had, put Seven in the car, said our good-byes to Hamish and paradise. And we were off.

Mara is Mexican and has countless years experience driving in Mexico and the US. But at the same time I was nervous. I have only driven this car for just over a week and to me it was like a damn truck compared to the Jeep I had driven for 17 years. But Mara climbed in and started driving it like she had owned it for years. I was unaware it was a holiday weekend in Mexico. Pretty hard to keep up with in Mexico because they have so many! Lucky for us because the highways were relatively quiet. Mara told me that usually driving through the city can take hours but we were sailing through. Coming closer to Mexico City she asked me what year the car is and the last number on my license plate. Kind of an odd question. I told her and she looked at me saying, really? All the information that I had read prior to the trip I cannot for the life of me remember reading anything about this. In Mexico City they are very adamant about keeping older cars off the road. And you must pay attention to the last number. My number was up. We were not supposed to be on the road. Holy Shit. If caught the car would be impounded, Mara could lose her license and I would be up shit’s creek with a bill that I could not afford. We purchased a pass for the over-pass. There was hardly any traffic and we booted it. Once safely out of the boundaries of Mexico City we did a high-five and fumbled through our bags to light a cigarette. Tense? Just a tad.

We are almost there. The road out of Mexico City to our destination is a highway that runs through the mountains. The highway gave us glimpses of the most active volcano in Mexico

Popocatépetl

Popocatépetl which has been more active since the devastating earth quake in September of this year.

Not far now. My friend Maria is meeting us at the only gas station in town to guide us to my new home. We made such good time everyone was amazed. Mara had places to go, people to see so there I was parked waiting for Maria. The clock was ticking. Maria was thinking the same, where are they. Finally we connect. She is at the other end of the station. It has been a year since I have seen her. We are both pretty speechless. I am in a daze.

Now it is time to follow Maria to the house. The brakes are squeaking. The road is bumpy. I have absolutely no idea where I am going. We arrive. Time to meet the landlady. Seven is sniffing every bush and we quickly make it to the front door. I am immediately told that I need to get water, I need to get gas. I am shown a room upstairs which has just been built. It is lovely. But I am told if I want it, it is and extra $1500 pesos a month. Whoa wait a second. You do realize that I have driven for the last 9 days I can’t take all this in right now.

Maria asks if I would like to get something to eat. Damn right, haven’t had a thing all day. I lock the door and get in her car. I have no idea where I am but I buy something to eat, buy some coffee and some things that I feel I will need. I had no idea. The plan was to wait for Maria to return but I needed to get back to the house. Order a taxi I am told. I did just that and guess what, we got lost. Just great. Luckily I was able to get Maria on her phone and she guided the driver to my house. I pay the driver and there is Seven in the yard. I forgot to shut the back door, thank god I shut the gate.

I spent the next couple of hours unloading the car and dragging everything to the house. There was no need really but this was it. We made it Seven.

Journey’s end. Tepoztlan, Morelos, Mexico.

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