Tag: San Miguel de Allende

Why Tepoztlan

Why Tepoztlan

Tepoztlan, Pueblo Magico, Morelos.

Tepoztlan from the pyramid

What brought me here? Bear with me for a moment and I will explain.

Some years ago I was awoken to the most horrendous industry of canned lion hunting in South Africa. I was always well aware of the hunting that has for the last three centuries decimated wildlife but to discover that lions were now being bred for people to kill was something that I could never have imagined. If you are unfamiliar please go to Blood Lions educate yourself and become aware. Did you know that in the continent of Africa there are only perhaps a little more than 18,000 wild lions left. Some organizations say the figure could be as low as 15,000. They are hunted, poached, ravished by disease in some areas and their territory being squeezed tighter and tighter as mankind expands. Yet through a constant push to save the most iconic of species throughout history their numbers are dwindling, it is a tough road. Then on the captive bred lions it is estimated that there are close to 10,000 lions which all end up either as a trophy on someone’s wall or killed for the bones to be sent to far east because they are running out of tiger bones. Corruption and greed prevail. You are probably thinking OK Stephanie now you are talking about lions in Africa what the hell has that got to do with Tepoztlan?

When one becomes involved in spreading awareness of the atrocities and hardships that lions have to survive your search engines, technical or self-induced take you further. Take you deeper. One of those threads took me to the demise of captive lions and wild cats. Eventually that led me to Mexico and a scamtuary called Black Jaguar White Tiger. From the moment I set eyes on this place, the bells went off. This is wrong. Really wrong. For more information hope over to this Facebook page called BJWT Watchdog and get the real story. Then as social media does what it is supposed to do, I met a lady who is determined to change the face of animal laws in Mexico. We had to meet. With my love of Mexico and the opportunity to meet this incredible lady I came to Tepoztlan in November 2016 for a flying visit.

my beswt friend on my first visit
delights in the market

I was told by many that you do not find Tepoztlan, Tepoztlan finds you. Well she found me all right. The moment I returned to Holt, that was it, I was moving to Tepoztlan. No more cold winters for this lady. No more frozen paws for Seven.

One would think of loving the beach, the ocean I would venture there but no, it was the mountains, the magic of Tepoztlan was where I wanted to be. Who knows down the road I may find a little village on the coast but now it is the dead centre of Mexico where we hang our hats. Many say that Tepoztlan is like what San Miguel de Allende was like years ago but with better landscape surroundings. SMA is larger and has always been and is now quite expensive to even find a room. That’s what happens when places become popular, articles are written that it is best place to retire and bang what was once a secluded town with a lovely mix of people becomes a real estate persons dream. Tepoz is nestled in a valley only an hour away from Mexico City. The weekends are filled with what we British called Day Trippers but come Monday morning the streets are quiet and life resumes a normal pattern. Some fear that Tepoz is becoming the way of SMA and will fall into the too expensive category for many. But for now, it is holding its ground and offers a complex variety of life styles, from peasant to luxury.

So that’s how I ended in Tepoztlan. It is definitely a learning game I must admit. New country, new life and a new language. A new challenge. We have our down days like anyone else. Then I wake up in the morning to a beautiful sunny day and life is good.

the hammock view
Last Day on the Road

Last Day on the Road

I so did not want to leave San Miguel but we must move forward. This is our last day on the road – for now.  Leaving Holt, Ontario many things crossed my mind. First what a crazy thing to do! Second, what the hell am I doing. Third and possibly the most important, I was following my dream. I feel that most people never ever thought that I would actually do it. How many women or men pack up and head out to a new life at 68? I too had my doubts whether I would grab that bull by the horn and actually go through with everything. Was I all talk and no action? Guess I was fool enough, strong enough, head strong enough, so why the hell not! In retrospect I wish I had taken longer to make the journey, taken the time to explore while I was travelling. But alas that also would have required more money which I did not have. Maybe next time.

The last leg of my journey was a sticky one for me. From San Miguel de Allende to my destination meant driving right through Mexico City. That I did not want to do. Not a chance. With my pigeon Spanish and trying to traverse through one of the most populated cities in the world it was not happening. What to do? I contacted a small tour company from San Miguel called Safe Trips SMA. Mara was supreme. The day before I sent her pictures of all the documents she needed. Mara was driving, Seven and I were passengers. What a joy that was going to be. The time was set for 8AM. I was awake way before that making sure I had everything in order and a couple of good cups of coffee. Mara was right on time. We loaded the few bags I had, put Seven in the car, said our good-byes to Hamish and paradise. And we were off.

Mara is Mexican and has countless years experience driving in Mexico and the US. But at the same time I was nervous. I have only driven this car for just over a week and to me it was like a damn truck compared to the Jeep I had driven for 17 years. But Mara climbed in and started driving it like she had owned it for years. I was unaware it was a holiday weekend in Mexico. Pretty hard to keep up with in Mexico because they have so many! Lucky for us because the highways were relatively quiet. Mara told me that usually driving through the city can take hours but we were sailing through. Coming closer to Mexico City she asked me what year the car is and the last number on my license plate. Kind of an odd question. I told her and she looked at me saying, really? All the information that I had read prior to the trip I cannot for the life of me remember reading anything about this. In Mexico City they are very adamant about keeping older cars off the road. And you must pay attention to the last number. My number was up. We were not supposed to be on the road. Holy Shit. If caught the car would be impounded, Mara could lose her license and I would be up shit’s creek with a bill that I could not afford. We purchased a pass for the over-pass. There was hardly any traffic and we booted it. Once safely out of the boundaries of Mexico City we did a high-five and fumbled through our bags to light a cigarette. Tense? Just a tad.

We are almost there. The road out of Mexico City to our destination is a highway that runs through the mountains. The highway gave us glimpses of the most active volcano in Mexico

Popocatépetl

Popocatépetl which has been more active since the devastating earth quake in September of this year.

Not far now. My friend Maria is meeting us at the only gas station in town to guide us to my new home. We made such good time everyone was amazed. Mara had places to go, people to see so there I was parked waiting for Maria. The clock was ticking. Maria was thinking the same, where are they. Finally we connect. She is at the other end of the station. It has been a year since I have seen her. We are both pretty speechless. I am in a daze.

Now it is time to follow Maria to the house. The brakes are squeaking. The road is bumpy. I have absolutely no idea where I am going. We arrive. Time to meet the landlady. Seven is sniffing every bush and we quickly make it to the front door. I am immediately told that I need to get water, I need to get gas. I am shown a room upstairs which has just been built. It is lovely. But I am told if I want it, it is and extra $1500 pesos a month. Whoa wait a second. You do realize that I have driven for the last 9 days I can’t take all this in right now.

Maria asks if I would like to get something to eat. Damn right, haven’t had a thing all day. I lock the door and get in her car. I have no idea where I am but I buy something to eat, buy some coffee and some things that I feel I will need. I had no idea. The plan was to wait for Maria to return but I needed to get back to the house. Order a taxi I am told. I did just that and guess what, we got lost. Just great. Luckily I was able to get Maria on her phone and she guided the driver to my house. I pay the driver and there is Seven in the yard. I forgot to shut the back door, thank god I shut the gate.

I spent the next couple of hours unloading the car and dragging everything to the house. There was no need really but this was it. We made it Seven.

Journey’s end. Tepoztlan, Morelos, Mexico.

home
we made it
Day Eight San Miguel de Allende

Day Eight San Miguel de Allende

Seven days on the road. Highways, motels, trucks, crappy food and my poor Seven not really knowing what was going on. I was exhausted yet wired to the gill. The road trip was not over yet but we took great refuge and thanks to my friend Hamish for letting us stay at his magnificent house in San Miguel de Allende. It made the seven days all worth it. His home in San Miguel is paradise. Nestled in the centre of the town behind brick walls and an unasuming door.  Like many homes in Mexico, never ever judge the book by the cover. There is not the flamboyance of showing off to the passers-by as seen throughout North America. You just never know what you may find behind those mediocre looking garage doors.

casa de Hamish

Upon entering I was immediately hit with the smell of jasmine. Everything is open but private. I immediately felt relaxed and ready to rejuvenate.

reflect and rejuvenate

After a good sleep, the first one in seven really, I had coffee and took Seven for a little walk around the neighbourhood praying I would not get lost! Returning, our day started with a great traditional Mexican breakfast prepared by the lady who takes care of everything at the house except the garden who Seven kept occupied, it had been a full week of not chasing his favourite ball so he was in paradise also.

happy seven on the roof top

It was then time for me to see a little of San Miguel. I certainly need more than an afternoon but thankful of my friend Hamish taking me on the mini tour. What a beautiful town and the centre was buzzing with tourists.

San Miguel de Allende

In fact San Miguel was my first choice some years ago but it has become expensive. In fact San Miguel has been listed as one of THE places to retire and as more and more people move into the town it is getting difficult to find suitable accommodation so my search extended.

Enroute to dinner I found my wings and had a magnificent meal while listening to some great music from Bobby Kapp, a good friend of Hamish. 

Time to walk back to paradise and have a good sleep, another busy day lays ahead of us as our journey continues.

Hamish and I
spread those wings
found my wings

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Seven

Day Seven

Waking up in a house rather than a motel was like heaven. There is no comparison. Below are a few pictures of the house and garden. Arteaga is a place that I would like to visit again. If I am ever in that part of the woods again I would most definitely. I had promised the lady who ran the small restaurant where I had the most amazing coffee that I would return in the morning. Full intentions, yes but I had a long car ride ahead of me, so it was time to hit the road.

dining room
The entrance

We were on our way from Arteaga to San Miguel de Allende to meet up with my friend Hamish who I have not seen in eons. This was my last day of driving which I will explain later.  A brief look at my notes and off we go.

out of Arteaga

 

 

directions to San Miguel and Hamish

 

 

 

 

 

 

The road to San Miguel looked pretty straight forward. A six-hour drive skirting the big cities. Maps lie. Of course I should have realized that by now but that was all I had to go on. All was good until we hit St Luis Potosi. Often the ring roads are not the answer as I was told in Texas and I should have listened to those words. So I ended up going round in damn circles and at one point found myself on the highway to Guadalajara which was completely in the wrong direction. After back tracking and realizing when I asked directions to San Miguel, I have to go through St Luis, just try to keep an eye for the right highway number. Yeah right!!! Once we did that and were clear of the city we were on the right path again. Then suddenly traffic came to an abrupt stop. We were stuck. My head was now pounding because of no food. We were out of water. And nowhere to go. We had to suck it up and get through this. Trucks and more trucks.

grid lock to San Miguel

Seven did take some water thank god but I could tell he was not happy and neither was I.  This lasted what seemed an eternity – 2 hours. I think there was an accident in a small town that we went through but by the time we passed through all that was left was the police tape and one cop directing traffic.

Finally we were through the traffic and once again motoring along. By this time I did not want to stop, all I needed to get to was San Miguel, my refuge for a couple of days.  We made it, we were in San Miguel and for the life of me I could not find la casa de Hamish. Thankfully I was close and he met me and drove us to his home.

And WOW, Seven and I could have stayed there forever. Tonight there was a party for one of Hamish’s friends. The food was outstanding, the people were fantastic. And I was in a daze.

It was such a relief the end of day seven. We were both so happy.

grand entrance
rest in San Miguel